Saturday 16th April 2011

We are now into our last day in Tasmania.  Tomorrow we set sail back to the mainland (big island).  On Thursday we travelled the short distance to Burnie from our stopover at Legana, just under 100kms  As per usual we did not just follow the highway but took some minor roads as they tend to be more interesting.  Again we are twisting and turning through mountain scenery that is gorgeous.  Up and down dale, past green pastures with fat cattle and produce growing.  We finally join the highway at Devonport but again take a detour for a look at Turners Beach.  A quiet little village with a lovely foreshore and what looked like lots of ‘weekenders’.  We enjoyed our cuppa there and went for a walk through the coastal shrubs to have a look at the beach.  Sand and stones stretch out before us and it seems that it is a popular place for walkers and dogs.

We head back to the highway and head out for Burnie where we intend to base ourselves for a couple of nights. In the 1990's Burnie had the reputation for being Australia's dirtiest town.  Today with the change in industry that has occurred (the paper and pulp mill closed in July 2010) the town has been reborn.

woodchip ready for export at Burnie

 We get ourselves settled into the park and then take a drive to the Makers Workshop where I had read about being able to take a paper making tour and being able to make your own paper.  This building is reasonably new (opened 2009) and incorporates the Tourist Information Centre.  The main focus is on the various crafters (24) who have workshops in the building and at different days you can see woodcarving, jewellery or musical instrument making, ceramicist, photographer, fibre artist and of course the paper makers amongst others.  The crafters creations are all available for purchase so it is different when you can see the product being produced for sale.  There are also wonderful paper people on display that have been crafted by two local ladies who combined to produce these lifelike figures.  Unfortunately they are not for sale.

a fellow traveller at Burnie

It is a 1933 Ford and they camped in a tent. 

Needless to say craft mad me had to have a go at this paper making tour.  Our guide Darren explains that all the paper they create is from recycled natural products.   The base for all their paper is cotton fabric or recycled paper.  They even use denim fabric cut into small pieces (about the size of a postage stamp) then processed through what looks like a major blender.  Their ‘different’ papers include those made from roo poo and wombat poo.  They have a wildlife sanctuary nearby who donate the raw material just like the towel weaver in Devonport who donate the end cottons etc from their towel processing.  The towels are made in 150 different colours so the paper makers also do not need to use any chemical dyes.  There is also a ‘forest floor’ paper made that includes matter from the forest floor.  Another paper is ‘apple’ and this includes the apple pulp donated by a juice maker in Launceston.   As Darren advised, they do not have to purchase their raw ingredients and that allows them to make paper that is different but still affordable for those many folk visiting the Makers Workshop.  I now have ‘my’ paper with it’s own watermark.  We each were able to make about 6 sheets of paper and then collect 6 sheets from those that had previously been made and had dried.  Once the wet paper is drained it needs 24hrs to dry so we of course could not take the actual pieces we made.

On Friday we took a drive out to the west coast to Marrawah, a total of 135km from Burnie.  This took us through Wynyard and out to a lighthouse there called Table Cape. 

view east from Table Cape lookout

The information board showed a photo of the nearby tulip farm in flower in springtime and looking around it was easy to imagine what it must be like when the surrounding paddocks are full of tulips in bloom.  This tulip farm actually sells bulbs to Holland!  The information board also advised that the children who lived there in the early 1900’s had a particular game after schooling and chores were done that proved to be a little deadly.  The children would hurl rocks etc over the 300 foot cliff to the water below.  One day one of the children (8yrs old) fell to his death taking part.

Driving on from the Wynyard area we went out to Rocky Cape headland and enjoyed our cuppa overlooking a little cove that looked so secluded and peaceful.  There were some small shacks around but no-one was in sight.  Just delightful.  We travel on to Stanley sited at the base of ‘The Nut’, actually called Circular Head, and enjoyed fish and chips.  There is a walk to the top of the rock and also a chair lift for those so inclined.  We drove around and enjoyed the beautiful scenery that was on display for us on this fabulous sunny day.  Not a cloud in the sky and only a gentle breeze so at last another magic day.

the Nut with Stanley at it's base

Marrawah is located out on the western coast of the island and is the end of the A2 highway.  We enjoy seeing very healthy looking Hereford cattle on lush green hills and also lots of potatoes and onions growing in the fields.  This country was settled to be used for agriculture to feed the population down south due to the rich volcanic soil that was found when those early settlers arrived.  This area of Tasmania receives rain on at least 186 days of the year, no wonder those paddocks are lush.  The wind farm has recently been developed to utilise the strong winds that blow almost constantly from the ocean.

windfarm north of Marrawah

Although there was much twisting and turning along the road the scenery was fabulous and so pleasing to the eye.  Just a great day.

Today we left Burnie and drove back to Devonport to be close for catching the ferry early in the morning. 

During this drive we drove the old highway which called into Penguin and of course had a stroll along the street after our cuppa beside the foreshore.  Needless to say there was a reason for photos.

the Penguin at Penguin

 After settling into the park at Devonport we went for a drive around the local area and enjoyed a pleasant afternoon.  Laundry and the last cooking is done making ready for an easy evening tomorrow evening after we arrive back to Victoria and our next adventure by turning left!

Our time down here has been magic and there is still much we didn’t do however, there is always next time.

the Spirit at Devonport wharf

Tuesday and Wednesday

Still overcast and showers happening we manage to get packed up and ready to roll without getting wet.  Our destination is a van park at Legana just 11km north west of Launceston.   We have decided as the weather forecast is for continuing rain and strong winds we think that being in a park on power is the way to go (after all the electric blankets have had a rest lately).  Again the road takes us up and down a mountain and on a clear day the views would be spectacular.  Unfortunately today we have rain all the way so the views are only of green valleys through a rain curtain, not what we would have liked but can’t be helped.   Our trip is only approximately 80km in total so we arrive at our destination by around 11am and lucky the rain held off and started just as we finished setting up so we were able to enjoy our cuppa knowing that we have time to go off and explore the city during the afternoon.  The rain became heavier however, we could dash across intersections and find arcades to wander through and keep ourselves dry.  The city centre is like any small city (population approx. 200,000) with the usual stores and lots of places to eat.  Of course there are lovely parks and there is also Cataract Gorge that could be visited however the rain during the afternoon had become heavier so we enjoyed what we could rambling around and then headed back to base and the warmth of the van.  Hopefully the rain will ease overnight and tomorrow can be a day of exploring again.

Wednesday 12^th April 2011 Still grey overhead however at least it isn’t raining.  Washing done and dried, we set off for a drive along the West Tamar Highway to the coast at Green’s Beach.  Vineyards dotted the hillsides everywhere we looked.  We stopped at Beaconsfield and checked out the Mining Heritage Centre.  This is found in the restored original buildings (1904) of the still operating gold mine located right in the middle of town. 

This mine was the site of the successful rescue of two miners trapped for 10 days in 2006.  During our detour into a shop Lawrie stopped to chat with one of the male assistants and it turned out to be none other than one or those rescued miners that the media had introduced us to.  Brandt was willing to chat about all manner of topics and told us that he is now heavily involved with assisting rescue groups around the country trying to raise money when their funding has been severely decreased.  We felt privileged to have been able to meet him and wished him well for the future.

The gift shop at the mining centre offers a variety of gifts and souvenirs and you can take a self-guided tour of the old workings for a fee.  We gave this a miss and instead took a walk along the main street reading the various heritage signs regarding buildings in the town.

At Greens Beach we were able to look across the mouth of the Tamar and see Low Head lighthouse where we had been only a couple of days previous.  We also stopped to admire carvings done from tree trunks. 

Back along the highway we called in to Brady’s Lookout.  From here you can see the river as it twists it’s way between the hills.  Brady was a convict that was sentenced to 7 years for theft and he ended up at Sarah Island from where he escaped with some other convicts just one year later.  He and his comrades hid themselves out in this area and tried unsuccessfully to hijack a ship (more than once) with the plan to sail away to freedom.   He was eventually captured and tried, found guilty of theft and murder and was hanged.  He was just 27 years old.

view from Brady's lookout

Friday to Monday

We finally said goodbye to Cosy Corner North on Friday and headed out towards Scottsdale.  The road again took us through mountains and lots of forestry plantations.  The valleys were green hills everywhere with cattle or sheep grazing.  Such pretty scenery.   We called in to Halls Falls to have a cuppa and enjoy a walk through the bush to the falls.

Halls Falls

 Arriving in Scottsdale we found the free camp ground on the eastern edge of town and decided to set ourselves up there.  Water is provided throughout the park along with toilets, cold showers and hot at $3 for 3 minutes but as we have our own we can save even more money.

Scottsdale is a little like New Norfolk with a good sized shopping centre including a Woolies supermarket and a Chickenfeed so we do some shopping to stock up again.  As we are still free camping I shop to suit what we can cook and reheat without the microwave.  

Saturday after some early showers cleared to blue skies with a light wind, we head out for a drive around the area.  We headed up to the coast at Bridport which is a little town where the tide goes out a loooooong way.  The fishing trawlers were sand locked as the tide had left them high and dry.  We drove out to the esplanade and checked out the local beaches where there was a girl guide camp happening for the weekend.  Interesting to see the types of tents etc they use now compared to what was used back in the 1980’s when I was involved with guides. 

We drove on towards George Town at the eastern side of the mouth of the Tamar River and called into the Information centre where we chatted to a couple of locals.  They provided us with the necessaries and we headed off to the lookout just a couple of km’s up the road.  This was the site of a signal station that was used to pass messages from Low Head pilot station regarding shipping movements, on to Mt Direction where they were then signalled on to another station and from there to Launceston.  Originally the signalling was done by flags and then with the introduction of the electric telegraph the system updated to the new system.  It was interesting to read how the messages took only 8 minutes from Low Head to Launceston via the flag method.

view from old flagstaff

George Town was settled by a boatload of convicts with soldiers, 1 free settler, a doctor and Lieut. Colonel Paterson being sent from the mainland in 1804 as there was concern by the NSW Governor of a French invasion of Van Diemen’s Land.  It is the third oldest settlement by Europeans in Australia with only Sydney (1788) and Hobart (1803) preceding it.  Originally called Outer Cove and then York Cove it was given the present name and declared a town in 1811.  The first map was published in 1813 showing the city centre streets with the same names they carry today.  When the Second World War ended the population was around 300 however owing to the industrial growth of Comalco, Temco and other smaller but important industries there are about 6,500.  There is a big focus on tourism and displaying the heritage connected to this settlement and this all provides opportunity for further growth.  Many of the original buildings are gone however those that remain are displayed in all their glory.

At Low Head the lighthouse is the oldest continual operating lighthouse in Australia. 

From George Town we drove down beside the Tamar River along the East Tamar Highway until we turned off to travel through to Lilydale where we find a stag deer with his harem.  

 Again driving through mountains and beautiful green hills we arrive back to Scottsdale from the west.  The autumn trees are now turning, especially the poplars and myrtles beside creeks and rivers.  The poplars stand tall with their mix of yellow and green leaves providing a scenic backdrop that is worthy of a painting whilst the myrtles spread their branches to provide shade and shelter for the cattle.  You can tell that this happens as the bottom of the foliage looks as if it has been pruned whereas in fact the cattle have chewed it off.  Unfortunately these scenes are only on view as we drive along and there is usually no-where to park to be able to capture the scene with a photograph. 

Sunday we decided to do the shopping and have a rest day in camp.  There were quite a few vans and motorhomes also camped in the park along with some hardy souls (young of course) in small tents and wizz bangs (camper vans).  We went for a walk through the park (North East Park) and explored along the creek and checked out the huge gums with the black cockatoos flying in to roost each afternoon.  There are also numerous resident ducks that appreciate a treat of bread from your fingers.  The park has been in existence since early in the 1900’s and in 1988 the local Lions and Apex members set about restoring the picnic facilities and building more toilets etc.  The end result means that travellers have wonderful facilities to use for little or no cost and this of course means that the trip is more affordable.  The afternoon is clear and sunny and I took advantage and pulled out my spinning wheel and spent an enjoyable time sitting in the sun and spinning some fleece I bought in Bothwell.  The clouds started to build up later in the afternoon and the evening found us with showers and strong winds that continued throughout the night.  Monday stayed wet and rather cool with a breeze that was rather chilly.  The weather forecast is for more rain so we decide that we will head out tomorrow as we are into our last week now.

Wednesday 6th April 2011

We said goodbye to Swansea yesterday and made our way further up the east coast.  Bicheno was our first port of call approximately 60km north of Swansea.  As the view shows a great spot for our cuppa.  The area was first settled by the whalers and seal hunters as they sought shelter from the ferocious seas in the little harbour.  There were quite a few fishing boats moored in the harbour and there were folk fishing from a breakwall just in front of where we were sitting.  Beautiful clear water and white sand has continued up the coast and you can understand why the area is popular with holiday makers and fisher folk alike.  More picture postcard scenery.

Bicheno coastline

St Helens is our next stop and although not much of a trip (in distance) from Swansea we hope to be able to stay there for a few nights.  We decide to go and check out the free camping sites north of the town to see what was on offer.  Cosy Corner North (15km north of town) in the Bay of Fires is where we find a campsite just waiting for us.  There were 5 different camping sites along the bay but we headed for the northernmost first and would then make our way back towards town in nothing was available or suitable.  As we are totally self-contained we just need the camping space and nothing else.  Words cannot do this spot justice so I will simply let the photos tell the story. 

We were only going to stay 2 nights as there is a fishing competition here at St Helens starting on Thursday however, with such a delightful setting we have decided to stay another night before moving on towards Scottsdale.  We can go into town and top up for supplies etc and then sit and enjoy this amazing place.  The weather is perfect with clear skies and sunshine you can enjoy soaking up.

our campsites front door - Binnalong Bay

campfire for the damper

the finished product....yummy

called the Bay of Fires because of the red lichen covering the rocks

such clear water

more scenic sights

rocks we clambered over - looking south

out to the headland for a sit and soak of the beauty - this is looking north

Saturday 2nd April 2011

Another day out sightseeing.  Still based at Swansea, we head out to explore the Freycinet Peninsula so the thermos and picnic lunch are all packed.  Heading up the Tasman Highway we start to see more vineyards.  Climbing Cherry Tree Hill (no we couldn’t see one) the view across Great Oyster Bay towards the Peninsula was quite special.  Coming down the other side of the hill we see vineyards and walnut orchards for as far as you could see.  This is the site of the Freycinet Vineyards and there is a large area under cultivation.  Our turnoff to Coles Bay is approximately 30km north of Swansea and we then head out towards the National Park and it isn’t long before The Hazard Range is on view.  This range consists of 5 pink/red granite mountains that keep watch over this scenic area.

Further along into the park is the site of the famous Wineglass Bay, judged as one of the top 10 beaches in the world for it’s fine white sand.  Again we had been here 18yrs ago but there has been much development since then.  There is now a Visitors Information Centre run by National Parks providing great info and displays on the area along with all the various souvenirs and of course also now an entry fee to the park.  The day cost for a vehicle is $24 so having purchased our ‘Parks Pass’ on the ferry coming over we are now well ahead instead of paying individually at each park we have visited.  There seems to be quite a few more buildings and most of them are accommodation cottages and units it seems.

Parking at the walk car-park we cannot help but notice that the wallabies are missing.  Last time we were surrounded by them soon after exiting the car.  Admittedly there were not many vehicles parked there that time, not like today, where there are now 3 levels of parking and most of the spaces are filled.    The track up to the lookout is certainly much improved and although it is mostly uphill the steps and wide track make it reasonable going.  You always like to stop and admire the improving view as you go so that helps get the breath back (well that is my excuse anyway).

white tea tree

banksia

White Tea-tree is in flower all along the track and combined with the various strains of Banksias and the fantastic views the climb doesn’t seem too bad.  There are plenty of rocky seats that have been constructed along the way for a ‘sit and view’, and as the track is ‘one way’ you don’t have folk walking down towards you.   We passed some interesting rock formations along the way and also an interesting tree trunk.  Now can you see anyone peeping out?

Rain Shelter?

Arriving at the lookout we take our turn at getting photos as now there are people everywhere it seems.  The view is still magic, like before, but we decide against the 90min return walk from here down to the beach and settle for just the lookout.  Finding a spare rock we sit ourselves and enjoy an apple and a chocolate as a reward before starting the track back down to the car-park. 

Wineglass Bay

Driving back towards Coles Bay we turn off and take the road to Cape Tourville and the lighthouse walk.  This is a walk that is wheelchair friendly so no need for rest breaks here.  The view again is spectacular back along the coast and as the coastline has curved further east we can actually see the entrance to Wineglass Bay from our vantage point.  There is no mistaking that white sand in the distance.   

looking south

There are two large rocky islands just off the coast from us and they look like happy homes for various sea birds.  The sign advised that if we travelled due east of our point we would hit the mid coast of the South Island of New Zealand.  Also the yachts in the Sydney to Hobart race can be seen passing from this point.  Fortunately for us the day was fine with only light cloud and a cooool breeze so visibility all around was good.

What more could you ask for than after returning to base, a spectacular sunset to finish the day.

Friday 1st April 2011

Clouds are streaking across the sky this morning and there is a fresh wind blowing.  We set off to have a day of exploring and headed north to check out some falls.  We wound up high through more timber country and the tops of the trees were being whipped by the strong winds blowing.  We even felt Bruiser being buffeted around so just as well Destiny wasn’t behind us.  It would have been sideways.  The turnoff to the Meetus Falls takes us along 10km of forestry road, which is well maintained, and interesting to drive through this thick forest.  There were forestry trails for the timber trucks to use criss-crossing the falls road but fortunately none appeared during our journey.

Meetus Falls

Outside the car we needed to rug up in our coats again as the wind was icy on our walk to the lookout.  The falls were quite spectacular and the water ran over rocks all along the valley floor through heavy vegetation, which made it difficult to photo clearly.

Back out to the main road and crossing over we drove out the eastern side along another forestry road to the Lost Falls.  Not sure how they can be lost when there are signs to follow!  Again a short walk to the lookout and we look sideways at the falls.  Would be great if the lookout was on the other side of the valley as I am sure the view would be spectacular. 

We also walked to the River Pools above the falls and enjoyed the view.

River pools at top of Lost Falls

Walking back to the car and detouring again we walk to a spot where there are views through to the coast along 9 mile beach and across to the Peninsula.  There were rain showers passing through so the view was not as clear as could have been but on a clear day would be great.

Driving onto Campbell Town we enjoy our lunch sitting in the car out of the wind watching a couple with ‘gold’ detectors walking the park in the centre of town.  They stop every now and then and dig with what looks like a screwdriver and then pocket coins, bottle-tops, things to sort out later.  Maybe they were locals as the council workers emptying the bins didn’t seem disturbed by them.  Campbell Town has some lovely old buildings as the area was settled in 1821 by Governor Macquarie – the river and town were named for his wife Elizabeth Campbell.  It was one of the settlements established to link Launceston and Hobart.  Properties in this area produce some of the finest Merino wool in the world and the Midlands region is the main agricultural centre of Tasmania.  The oldest continuously held Agricultural show in the southern hemisphere still takes place every June in the showground.  It is centrally located on the Heritage Highway, with a town population of 900 and boasts over a hundred homes aged a century or more.  The Red Bridge built of red clay bricks, was completed in 1838 after only 15 months construction.  The clay for the bricks was extracted from one end of the bridge and it is estimated that there are 1.5million bricks in the bridge.  It was constructed for horse drawn vehicles only and today takes over 2million vehicles annually and no major repair work has ever been necessary.  How is that for workmanship?

Another interesting fact is that the first telephone call in Australia was made between Campbell Town and Launceston Railway Stations by a local schoolmaster Mr Alfred Biggs.   He constructed two telephones from drawings by Alexander Graham Bell.  These phones are now at the Museum in Launceston.

We journeyed back down the highway to Ross to explore the wonderful old buildings down there along with the famous bridge that is built of sandstone that was carved by two convict stonemasons.  The bridge took a couple of years to build and the two stonemasons were granted their freedom on completion.  They had carved panels depicting various Celtic symbols.

We walked the main street checking out the various buildings and admiring the skills of those early pioneers.  Of course I could not pass the Tasmanian Wool Centre that has opened in Ross in one of the lovely sandstone buildings.  As well as being able to purchase garments and check out the entire various souvenirs available there is a wool museum on display.  Wow what a place to visit for a spinner.  There are fleece samples from all various breeds of sheep (to touch) along with static displays about shearing and stories of various graziers who had settled in the area.  It was a fascinating place to visit and you could easily spend the whole day there trolling through the various collections of newspaper clippings and reading the stories of the various families.  There was also a display of fine merino wool (again touchy feely) showing the different micron varieties.  Needless to say they even had a few bags of fleece on sale and one just had my name on it! 

Church at Ross

We enjoyed afternoon tea at the old Bakery that was built in 1838 and sat inside (out of the cold wind) and enjoyed the historic surroundings.  Just to sit and touch those hewn stone walls and feel that you connect with those generations of old.  We loved it and there were lots of yummy things to eat as well.  Yes Lawrie and another bakery.

Thursday 31st March 2011

Before leaving New Norfolk on Thursday morning we drove to the top of Peppermint Hill and took photos of the little town we had come to feel at home in.  This hill is on the opposite side of the river to Pulpit Rock so gives a different perspective.  The autumn colours are not showing any more prominently than previously however driving around the streets there are some beautiful trees colouring up.  Finally it was time to leave and start heading out for the east coast. 

                                                    New Norfolk from Peppermint Hill

We took the route we had sussed out earlier and avoided all that ‘city’ traffic the normal track would have provided.  We were soon onto the Tasman Highway and heading north with more tree farms surrounding us as we climb yet another hill (mountain).  Someone of old had a sense of humour or had suffered much as at the top of yet another long climb there was a sign naming it ‘Bust a Gut Hill’.  What must it have been like for those early travellers?

Reaching Orford we touch the east coast and enjoy the views across Mercury Passage to Maria Island an 11,000 hectare National Park.  The island still has the remains of convict buildings in the historic settlement of Darlington dating back to 1842, and the starting place of the Tasmanian Wine industry in 1895.  There is a ferry trip that can be taken from Triabunna however the whole island is National Park so unless you intend to hike and camp over there a day trip seems a waste.

The highway mainly follows the coast towards Swansea so there is plenty of pretty postcard scenery but not necessarily many places to stop for the photos (minor detail).   The day had cleared and the sea and sky were clear so the colours were just magic.  We had decided to base ourselves at Swansea and do our exploring from there.  The view from our back window is across the road and then across Great Oyster Bay to the Freycinet Peninsula, how spectacular.  The waves continually breaking on the shore across the road remind us of the constant movement of the ocean.

                 the view from our back window across the southern end of Great Oyster Bay

 We drove back out to Spiky Bridge just below Swansea and took some photos of this most unusual design.  The bridge was built by convicts in 1843 and is still standing strong.  The information states that the reason for the stones sticking up along the top is not known but could have been to prevent the cattle from going off the side of the bridge or maybe just a folly of the officer in charge of construction. 

Spiky Bridge 1843