Staying in Penshurst

Thursday we say goodbye to Colac and head north to the Hamilton Highway and then turn west driving through Lismore, Mortlake and on to Penshurst. 

Trees in Mortlake

Penshurst is a small town with a caravan park with only 8 powered sites so seems for us a good place to ‘hide out’ till after Easter and the school holidays.  The Great Ocean Road had become busy and we had encountered buses of tourists trying to see everything in a short time so there is no fun in mixing with that.  Penshurst was settled in the early 1800’s and is mainly grazing and crops.  There is a high proportion of sheep to people in the area and driving around there are paddocks of freshly shorn sheep everywhere.  The paddocks are green as there was good rainfall in this area earlier in the year.  There are lovely bluestone buildings built from locally obtained bluestone still standing in the town and although many original shop buildings are now closed there is a hope that the town can be renewed.  The caravan park is set in the local Wetland Gardens with the local bowls club and swimming pool located at the rear of the park. 

autumn trees in the park

the 'lawn' is duck weed with water underneath

There is a permanent spring that bubbles up and creates the water course that the gardens have been set around.  One of the locals we chatted with told us that the children in the 1900’s used to swim there and stop for a drink on a hot day on their way to school.  The pools have a lot of duckweed growing over them and from a distance looks like lawn.  Youngsters have been caught out when running and not realising that there is water underneath the green carpet.  The local resident across the road keeps a supply of old towels at the front door during summer for such occurences.

After setting ourselves up we stay snuggled in the van for Friday and Saturday as the weather is quite cool and miserable.  Overcast and showering with a cool breeze blowing there is no enticement to venture outdoors.  Sunday the clouds start to clear and there are patches of sunshine so we enjoyed afternoon tea with the couples from two other vans.  One couple is from Geelong and just away for a couple of weeks whilst the other couple are from Nowra and are heading off for an adventure for a few months.  They are hoping to head for WA like us so we are able to chat about our trip last year up through the centre.  We all enjoyed the afternoon and finally headed indoors as the evening closed in and the temperature dropped.

On Monday, Kerrie and Graham (from Geelong) headed off as they planned to be home for the footy match that afternoon.  These Victorians love their footy.  We decided to go for a walk up the street and see if we could pick up some milk and bread and as we strolled towards the shop we could hear a piper and we were in time for the local Anzac march.  A lone piper led the small group to the local cenotaph where wreaths were laid in honour of the fallen from the many conflicts where Australian troops have served.  The president of the local RSL sub-branch then invited all present to the local hall for the Anzac service.  We had hoped to be able to attend a small town service but had not seen any notice of one for Penshurst so we were happy to see that there was one planned.  There were about 120 people attending and it was good to see the range of ages from young children through to the veterans.  Following the service the ladies of the local hospital auxiliary served morning tea and the spread of home cooking goodies was a sight to see.  There is nothing like a small town for community gatherings to feature yummy food.

On our way home we met up with another local who invited us to have a look see at the historic courthouse and gaol.  He is a member of the local historical group and told us how the courthouse was used till about 1970.  It was interesting to check out the scratched names and dates in the seats and desk areas in the courthouse.  Outside, the gaol building was a surprise.  We were informed that these ‘lockups’ has been constructed in England and then sent out as ‘flat packs’ to be assembled on site. 

Penshurst Lockup

The walls and floor were thick wooden slabs that have steel bars pass through from top to bottom and side to side.  Each timber slab was approximately 8 inches wide and between each 2 there was a steel bar.  Each wall was coded, a, b, c etc so as to assist with the construction and these letters are still visible inside the cell.  There are ventilation holes and two windows but only a raised ledge for the prisoners to sit on whilst they waited to front the magistrate.  The local historian told us that there are still locals in the town who claim to have spent a night in the cell to ‘sleep it off’.  As these ‘cells’ were sent out before 1900 maybe the Swedish were not the first to ‘flatpack’.

 Driving around the local countryside we stopped at roadside signs that tell about Mt Napier and it’s recent (8000yrs ago) eruption and lava flow.  There is a walking track to the top of the mountain and also many other areas of interest in this volcano trail around the Penshurst area.

Mt Napier and the lava flow through the valley

Ansett museum at Hamilton

Buffalo grazing near Hamilton

the southern Grampians

view of Penshurst from the top of Rouse Hill

looking across to the Grampians from Rouse Hill lookout

our camp at Penshurst Water Gardens Caravan Park

Wednesday 20th April 2011

Another cool day with clouds scudding above.  We head out again towards Apollo Bay, another stopping off place along the Great Ocean Road.  This time our road to the coast takes us through much greener pastures than yesterday as it passes through the Otway Ranges. 

Part of the Otway range 

There is obviously much more rainfall as we travel further along the coastline.  We stopped off (for our cuppa) at Forrest at the Barwon Reserve around the water storage facility built in the 1960’s to supplement the water supply for Geelong.  We chatted to a couple who were hoping to catch some fish in the dam for their Good Friday lunch.  They had both lived in the local area for most of their lives so proved to be quite an interesting conversation.   They showed us the dragonfly larvae they were using as their bait.  Another ‘first’ for us to see.

trees at the entrance

We continued to twist and turn as we headed to the coast we pass through beautiful rainforest and tall timbers again.  This mountain range is wonderful to drive through with hints of sunshine coming through the clouds every now and again.  Apollo Bay was full of holiday makers, folk in the surf and others checking out the variety of stores along the main esplanade.  We found ourselves a quiet spot overlooking the water and enjoyed the picnic lunch we had brought along.

The road leaves the coast soon after here and heads a little inland however we were sure to take the turnoff to Cape Otway Lighthouse.  We had visited here previously and remember the lighthouse being surrounded by thick vegetation so that you couldn’t get to it without the use of a machete!  Well what a difference this time.  There is visitors centre at the parking area and then you have an entrance fee if you wish to walk out and around the buildings.  Needless to say we didn’t bother doing that however the highlight for us was seeing the koala colony along the road.  On our way out we had noticed cars stopped by the road and folk pointing up and came to the conclusion that there must have been koalas there so planned to stop and have a look on the return trip.  Of course that sounds simple but can you really identify that same spot that easily?  Well we stopped where we thought might be the ‘spot’ and yes there were 3 koalas up trees quietly eating or sleeping.  A minivan stopped with 3 English tourists and they told us about the group just a km or so further along, so we hadn’t been far out with our guess.  We certainly stopped at the next spot and we found 7 perched up in the gums.  One was a youngster who was having a feed and was quite alert, with mum sitting quietly in the background possibly keeping an eye on him/her.  Another was having a good scratch and was in a clearer spot so easier to catch with the camera.  What a delightful time we had just standing there watching these favourite Aussie creatures.

The section of coast between Cape Otway and Port Campbell is where the well-known limestone features are found such as The 12 Apostles, London Bridge, Loch Ard Gorge and The Arch. 

The Arch

London Bridge

This was joined to the mainland but collapsed in 1989 leaving two people to be rescued by helicopter.

We called in to view quite a few of these as we travelled the road.  The road is very close to the coast and with it being holiday time the road and each viewing area was quite busy.  

Loch Ard Gorge

 Loch Ard Gorge is where in the mid 1800’s the Loch Ard was wrecked at night with only 2 survivors from a total of 58, a young man Tom Pearce the ships apprentice and 18yr old Eva Carmichael.  They were washed ashore into the gorge where they sheltered in a cave.  A bottle of brandy that washed up from the wreck was used to keep them warm and in the morning Tom set off to climb out of the gorge and go to find help.  He came across two stockmen and they arranged for the rescue of Eva.

Now in Victoria

Our crossing of Bass Strait was much smoother this time than our outward journey.  Sunny skies and swells of only 1m compared to overcast and 3m, what a difference.

Arriving at Port Melbourne it was approximately 7pm before we drove off the Spirit.  We had asked some Melbournians about the best way to get to the freeway and following their advice worked a treat.  We called into the service centre and had a bite to eat before up on the freeway and head out of town.  Our goal was a roadside stop along the highway towards Geelong.  We found the roadside stop was actually another BP service centre but there was plenty of room down the back and we were able to set up without too much bother just for the night.  There were a few trucks pulled in and out but we were both able to sleep ok until the trucks started moving again in the morning.  There was an Information kiosk at the garage so once it opened we went and collected info re the state.  We were informed that ‘free’ camping is illegal in Vic so looks like we will have to be careful where we stop.  They do not have the rest areas along the highway that we are used to in NSW and certainly don’t have the facilities that Tassie offered.  Oh well if it was always the same we wouldn’t have any adventure.

Monday - Phone calls let us find out that there were no sites available in Geelong  so we decide to bypass the city and head further out along the highway.  This had been going to be our base for a few days however that had to change and now Colac is our base leading up to Easter.  With school holidays also on there is not much room at any of the ‘holiday’ type destinations.  Certainly not along the Great Ocean Road that we planned to drive.  We will then move on to Penshurst  (above Warrnambool) and hide out there till after Easter and school holidays have finished. 

Tuesday we ventured back to Geelong and collected our mail that had been forwarded there to the Post Office.  We spent some time exploring the city and had our picnic lunch in the Botanic Gardens.  At least that was free parking.  Geelong has some lovely old stone buildings in the city and is certainly a hub of activity.  After spending a couple of hours driving around we head out for Queenscliff on the Bellarine Peninsula.  This is the southern entrance to Port Phillip Bay and we found that the entrance is only 3.1km wide.  There is a passenger and vehicular ferry that crosses from here to Portsea on the northern edge of the bay.  We had seen these ferries during our trips on the Spirit and Queenscliff looked to also have some of their historic buildings being well utilised by locals.  Information boards are erected at the point honouring much of the naval history that had been based in the area.  Whilst we were looking for a park for our usual cuppa we heard a train whistle and it sounded like a steam engine.  We found our way to the railway station and along comes a steam train that usually runs in the local area on weekends however with the school holidays they were running through the week as well. 

 My ex railway worker enjoyed checking out the engine and gave me a run down on the workings and what the process was at the start of each shift for him as a junior fireman back in the 1960’s.  This engine was coal fired so the sounds and smells were what we had remembered from many years ago.  The steam engine we had in Tasmania was oil fired and didn’t smell quite the same.

Leaving Queenscliff we set out to make our way to the Great Ocean Road to drive part of it before heading back to base.  We drove around the western edge of the peninsula and checked out Barwon Heads and Torquay which seems to be a surfing centre as most of the shops etc seemed to be surf orientated.  Of course the Bells Beach Surfing Classic is held at this time each year and I guess Torquay would be the main centre for it.  We had hoped to drive pass the beach however the whole area is closed off for the Event so in order to see anything you have to pay for entry.  Needless to say we turned right and headed out further along the coast and headed instead for Anglesea and Lorne.

The Great Ocean Road is a classic drive in Australia and we have done it twice before back in the 1990’s but hope to take a little longer this time and soak it up a bit.  This time we will be doing it in pieces instead of all in one hit as we had done previously.  Just past Anglesea we called into Aireys Inlet and called at the lighthouse which was one of the last built on the Vic coastline.  We enjoyed a walk out to the lookout that has been built past the lighthouse where one can enjoy the view both up and down the coast.  

Driving on to Lorne the road begins the familiar twisting path beside the coast.  We ooh and aah at the homes built on stilts with views across to the ocean.  What it there was a landslip there!!

Lorne has certainly expanded from what we remember.  There are accommodation signs everywhere and lots of shops and cafes built along the ocean front.  We parked at the beach for the last cuppa of the day and watched surfers (maybe learners as the swell was quite small), swimmers, walkers and joggers all enjoying the end of the day and the wonderful nature around them.

Eagle Rock at Split Point

We left the coastline behind and headed up the hills back for home.  Just like Tassie, twisting and turning, most corners only 30 or 40kph but at least those vehicles coming towards us were mainly on the right side of the white line.  The countryside is very different as the hills look brown and dry compared to those lush green hills we have left behind.  Of well another example of this country’s great contrasts.

Saturday 16th April 2011

We are now into our last day in Tasmania.  Tomorrow we set sail back to the mainland (big island).  On Thursday we travelled the short distance to Burnie from our stopover at Legana, just under 100kms  As per usual we did not just follow the highway but took some minor roads as they tend to be more interesting.  Again we are twisting and turning through mountain scenery that is gorgeous.  Up and down dale, past green pastures with fat cattle and produce growing.  We finally join the highway at Devonport but again take a detour for a look at Turners Beach.  A quiet little village with a lovely foreshore and what looked like lots of ‘weekenders’.  We enjoyed our cuppa there and went for a walk through the coastal shrubs to have a look at the beach.  Sand and stones stretch out before us and it seems that it is a popular place for walkers and dogs.

We head back to the highway and head out for Burnie where we intend to base ourselves for a couple of nights. In the 1990's Burnie had the reputation for being Australia's dirtiest town.  Today with the change in industry that has occurred (the paper and pulp mill closed in July 2010) the town has been reborn.

woodchip ready for export at Burnie

 We get ourselves settled into the park and then take a drive to the Makers Workshop where I had read about being able to take a paper making tour and being able to make your own paper.  This building is reasonably new (opened 2009) and incorporates the Tourist Information Centre.  The main focus is on the various crafters (24) who have workshops in the building and at different days you can see woodcarving, jewellery or musical instrument making, ceramicist, photographer, fibre artist and of course the paper makers amongst others.  The crafters creations are all available for purchase so it is different when you can see the product being produced for sale.  There are also wonderful paper people on display that have been crafted by two local ladies who combined to produce these lifelike figures.  Unfortunately they are not for sale.

a fellow traveller at Burnie

It is a 1933 Ford and they camped in a tent. 

Needless to say craft mad me had to have a go at this paper making tour.  Our guide Darren explains that all the paper they create is from recycled natural products.   The base for all their paper is cotton fabric or recycled paper.  They even use denim fabric cut into small pieces (about the size of a postage stamp) then processed through what looks like a major blender.  Their ‘different’ papers include those made from roo poo and wombat poo.  They have a wildlife sanctuary nearby who donate the raw material just like the towel weaver in Devonport who donate the end cottons etc from their towel processing.  The towels are made in 150 different colours so the paper makers also do not need to use any chemical dyes.  There is also a ‘forest floor’ paper made that includes matter from the forest floor.  Another paper is ‘apple’ and this includes the apple pulp donated by a juice maker in Launceston.   As Darren advised, they do not have to purchase their raw ingredients and that allows them to make paper that is different but still affordable for those many folk visiting the Makers Workshop.  I now have ‘my’ paper with it’s own watermark.  We each were able to make about 6 sheets of paper and then collect 6 sheets from those that had previously been made and had dried.  Once the wet paper is drained it needs 24hrs to dry so we of course could not take the actual pieces we made.

On Friday we took a drive out to the west coast to Marrawah, a total of 135km from Burnie.  This took us through Wynyard and out to a lighthouse there called Table Cape. 

view east from Table Cape lookout

The information board showed a photo of the nearby tulip farm in flower in springtime and looking around it was easy to imagine what it must be like when the surrounding paddocks are full of tulips in bloom.  This tulip farm actually sells bulbs to Holland!  The information board also advised that the children who lived there in the early 1900’s had a particular game after schooling and chores were done that proved to be a little deadly.  The children would hurl rocks etc over the 300 foot cliff to the water below.  One day one of the children (8yrs old) fell to his death taking part.

Driving on from the Wynyard area we went out to Rocky Cape headland and enjoyed our cuppa overlooking a little cove that looked so secluded and peaceful.  There were some small shacks around but no-one was in sight.  Just delightful.  We travel on to Stanley sited at the base of ‘The Nut’, actually called Circular Head, and enjoyed fish and chips.  There is a walk to the top of the rock and also a chair lift for those so inclined.  We drove around and enjoyed the beautiful scenery that was on display for us on this fabulous sunny day.  Not a cloud in the sky and only a gentle breeze so at last another magic day.

the Nut with Stanley at it's base

Marrawah is located out on the western coast of the island and is the end of the A2 highway.  We enjoy seeing very healthy looking Hereford cattle on lush green hills and also lots of potatoes and onions growing in the fields.  This country was settled to be used for agriculture to feed the population down south due to the rich volcanic soil that was found when those early settlers arrived.  This area of Tasmania receives rain on at least 186 days of the year, no wonder those paddocks are lush.  The wind farm has recently been developed to utilise the strong winds that blow almost constantly from the ocean.

windfarm north of Marrawah

Although there was much twisting and turning along the road the scenery was fabulous and so pleasing to the eye.  Just a great day.

Today we left Burnie and drove back to Devonport to be close for catching the ferry early in the morning. 

During this drive we drove the old highway which called into Penguin and of course had a stroll along the street after our cuppa beside the foreshore.  Needless to say there was a reason for photos.

the Penguin at Penguin

 After settling into the park at Devonport we went for a drive around the local area and enjoyed a pleasant afternoon.  Laundry and the last cooking is done making ready for an easy evening tomorrow evening after we arrive back to Victoria and our next adventure by turning left!

Our time down here has been magic and there is still much we didn’t do however, there is always next time.

the Spirit at Devonport wharf

Tuesday and Wednesday

Still overcast and showers happening we manage to get packed up and ready to roll without getting wet.  Our destination is a van park at Legana just 11km north west of Launceston.   We have decided as the weather forecast is for continuing rain and strong winds we think that being in a park on power is the way to go (after all the electric blankets have had a rest lately).  Again the road takes us up and down a mountain and on a clear day the views would be spectacular.  Unfortunately today we have rain all the way so the views are only of green valleys through a rain curtain, not what we would have liked but can’t be helped.   Our trip is only approximately 80km in total so we arrive at our destination by around 11am and lucky the rain held off and started just as we finished setting up so we were able to enjoy our cuppa knowing that we have time to go off and explore the city during the afternoon.  The rain became heavier however, we could dash across intersections and find arcades to wander through and keep ourselves dry.  The city centre is like any small city (population approx. 200,000) with the usual stores and lots of places to eat.  Of course there are lovely parks and there is also Cataract Gorge that could be visited however the rain during the afternoon had become heavier so we enjoyed what we could rambling around and then headed back to base and the warmth of the van.  Hopefully the rain will ease overnight and tomorrow can be a day of exploring again.

Wednesday 12^th April 2011 Still grey overhead however at least it isn’t raining.  Washing done and dried, we set off for a drive along the West Tamar Highway to the coast at Green’s Beach.  Vineyards dotted the hillsides everywhere we looked.  We stopped at Beaconsfield and checked out the Mining Heritage Centre.  This is found in the restored original buildings (1904) of the still operating gold mine located right in the middle of town. 

This mine was the site of the successful rescue of two miners trapped for 10 days in 2006.  During our detour into a shop Lawrie stopped to chat with one of the male assistants and it turned out to be none other than one or those rescued miners that the media had introduced us to.  Brandt was willing to chat about all manner of topics and told us that he is now heavily involved with assisting rescue groups around the country trying to raise money when their funding has been severely decreased.  We felt privileged to have been able to meet him and wished him well for the future.

The gift shop at the mining centre offers a variety of gifts and souvenirs and you can take a self-guided tour of the old workings for a fee.  We gave this a miss and instead took a walk along the main street reading the various heritage signs regarding buildings in the town.

At Greens Beach we were able to look across the mouth of the Tamar and see Low Head lighthouse where we had been only a couple of days previous.  We also stopped to admire carvings done from tree trunks. 

Back along the highway we called in to Brady’s Lookout.  From here you can see the river as it twists it’s way between the hills.  Brady was a convict that was sentenced to 7 years for theft and he ended up at Sarah Island from where he escaped with some other convicts just one year later.  He and his comrades hid themselves out in this area and tried unsuccessfully to hijack a ship (more than once) with the plan to sail away to freedom.   He was eventually captured and tried, found guilty of theft and murder and was hanged.  He was just 27 years old.

view from Brady's lookout

Friday to Monday

We finally said goodbye to Cosy Corner North on Friday and headed out towards Scottsdale.  The road again took us through mountains and lots of forestry plantations.  The valleys were green hills everywhere with cattle or sheep grazing.  Such pretty scenery.   We called in to Halls Falls to have a cuppa and enjoy a walk through the bush to the falls.

Halls Falls

 Arriving in Scottsdale we found the free camp ground on the eastern edge of town and decided to set ourselves up there.  Water is provided throughout the park along with toilets, cold showers and hot at $3 for 3 minutes but as we have our own we can save even more money.

Scottsdale is a little like New Norfolk with a good sized shopping centre including a Woolies supermarket and a Chickenfeed so we do some shopping to stock up again.  As we are still free camping I shop to suit what we can cook and reheat without the microwave.  

Saturday after some early showers cleared to blue skies with a light wind, we head out for a drive around the area.  We headed up to the coast at Bridport which is a little town where the tide goes out a loooooong way.  The fishing trawlers were sand locked as the tide had left them high and dry.  We drove out to the esplanade and checked out the local beaches where there was a girl guide camp happening for the weekend.  Interesting to see the types of tents etc they use now compared to what was used back in the 1980’s when I was involved with guides. 

We drove on towards George Town at the eastern side of the mouth of the Tamar River and called into the Information centre where we chatted to a couple of locals.  They provided us with the necessaries and we headed off to the lookout just a couple of km’s up the road.  This was the site of a signal station that was used to pass messages from Low Head pilot station regarding shipping movements, on to Mt Direction where they were then signalled on to another station and from there to Launceston.  Originally the signalling was done by flags and then with the introduction of the electric telegraph the system updated to the new system.  It was interesting to read how the messages took only 8 minutes from Low Head to Launceston via the flag method.

view from old flagstaff

George Town was settled by a boatload of convicts with soldiers, 1 free settler, a doctor and Lieut. Colonel Paterson being sent from the mainland in 1804 as there was concern by the NSW Governor of a French invasion of Van Diemen’s Land.  It is the third oldest settlement by Europeans in Australia with only Sydney (1788) and Hobart (1803) preceding it.  Originally called Outer Cove and then York Cove it was given the present name and declared a town in 1811.  The first map was published in 1813 showing the city centre streets with the same names they carry today.  When the Second World War ended the population was around 300 however owing to the industrial growth of Comalco, Temco and other smaller but important industries there are about 6,500.  There is a big focus on tourism and displaying the heritage connected to this settlement and this all provides opportunity for further growth.  Many of the original buildings are gone however those that remain are displayed in all their glory.

At Low Head the lighthouse is the oldest continual operating lighthouse in Australia. 

From George Town we drove down beside the Tamar River along the East Tamar Highway until we turned off to travel through to Lilydale where we find a stag deer with his harem.  

 Again driving through mountains and beautiful green hills we arrive back to Scottsdale from the west.  The autumn trees are now turning, especially the poplars and myrtles beside creeks and rivers.  The poplars stand tall with their mix of yellow and green leaves providing a scenic backdrop that is worthy of a painting whilst the myrtles spread their branches to provide shade and shelter for the cattle.  You can tell that this happens as the bottom of the foliage looks as if it has been pruned whereas in fact the cattle have chewed it off.  Unfortunately these scenes are only on view as we drive along and there is usually no-where to park to be able to capture the scene with a photograph. 

Sunday we decided to do the shopping and have a rest day in camp.  There were quite a few vans and motorhomes also camped in the park along with some hardy souls (young of course) in small tents and wizz bangs (camper vans).  We went for a walk through the park (North East Park) and explored along the creek and checked out the huge gums with the black cockatoos flying in to roost each afternoon.  There are also numerous resident ducks that appreciate a treat of bread from your fingers.  The park has been in existence since early in the 1900’s and in 1988 the local Lions and Apex members set about restoring the picnic facilities and building more toilets etc.  The end result means that travellers have wonderful facilities to use for little or no cost and this of course means that the trip is more affordable.  The afternoon is clear and sunny and I took advantage and pulled out my spinning wheel and spent an enjoyable time sitting in the sun and spinning some fleece I bought in Bothwell.  The clouds started to build up later in the afternoon and the evening found us with showers and strong winds that continued throughout the night.  Monday stayed wet and rather cool with a breeze that was rather chilly.  The weather forecast is for more rain so we decide that we will head out tomorrow as we are into our last week now.

Wednesday 6th April 2011

We said goodbye to Swansea yesterday and made our way further up the east coast.  Bicheno was our first port of call approximately 60km north of Swansea.  As the view shows a great spot for our cuppa.  The area was first settled by the whalers and seal hunters as they sought shelter from the ferocious seas in the little harbour.  There were quite a few fishing boats moored in the harbour and there were folk fishing from a breakwall just in front of where we were sitting.  Beautiful clear water and white sand has continued up the coast and you can understand why the area is popular with holiday makers and fisher folk alike.  More picture postcard scenery.

Bicheno coastline

St Helens is our next stop and although not much of a trip (in distance) from Swansea we hope to be able to stay there for a few nights.  We decide to go and check out the free camping sites north of the town to see what was on offer.  Cosy Corner North (15km north of town) in the Bay of Fires is where we find a campsite just waiting for us.  There were 5 different camping sites along the bay but we headed for the northernmost first and would then make our way back towards town in nothing was available or suitable.  As we are totally self-contained we just need the camping space and nothing else.  Words cannot do this spot justice so I will simply let the photos tell the story. 

We were only going to stay 2 nights as there is a fishing competition here at St Helens starting on Thursday however, with such a delightful setting we have decided to stay another night before moving on towards Scottsdale.  We can go into town and top up for supplies etc and then sit and enjoy this amazing place.  The weather is perfect with clear skies and sunshine you can enjoy soaking up.

our campsites front door - Binnalong Bay

campfire for the damper

the finished product....yummy

called the Bay of Fires because of the red lichen covering the rocks

such clear water

more scenic sights

rocks we clambered over - looking south

out to the headland for a sit and soak of the beauty - this is looking north

Saturday 2nd April 2011

Another day out sightseeing.  Still based at Swansea, we head out to explore the Freycinet Peninsula so the thermos and picnic lunch are all packed.  Heading up the Tasman Highway we start to see more vineyards.  Climbing Cherry Tree Hill (no we couldn’t see one) the view across Great Oyster Bay towards the Peninsula was quite special.  Coming down the other side of the hill we see vineyards and walnut orchards for as far as you could see.  This is the site of the Freycinet Vineyards and there is a large area under cultivation.  Our turnoff to Coles Bay is approximately 30km north of Swansea and we then head out towards the National Park and it isn’t long before The Hazard Range is on view.  This range consists of 5 pink/red granite mountains that keep watch over this scenic area.

Further along into the park is the site of the famous Wineglass Bay, judged as one of the top 10 beaches in the world for it’s fine white sand.  Again we had been here 18yrs ago but there has been much development since then.  There is now a Visitors Information Centre run by National Parks providing great info and displays on the area along with all the various souvenirs and of course also now an entry fee to the park.  The day cost for a vehicle is $24 so having purchased our ‘Parks Pass’ on the ferry coming over we are now well ahead instead of paying individually at each park we have visited.  There seems to be quite a few more buildings and most of them are accommodation cottages and units it seems.

Parking at the walk car-park we cannot help but notice that the wallabies are missing.  Last time we were surrounded by them soon after exiting the car.  Admittedly there were not many vehicles parked there that time, not like today, where there are now 3 levels of parking and most of the spaces are filled.    The track up to the lookout is certainly much improved and although it is mostly uphill the steps and wide track make it reasonable going.  You always like to stop and admire the improving view as you go so that helps get the breath back (well that is my excuse anyway).

white tea tree

banksia

White Tea-tree is in flower all along the track and combined with the various strains of Banksias and the fantastic views the climb doesn’t seem too bad.  There are plenty of rocky seats that have been constructed along the way for a ‘sit and view’, and as the track is ‘one way’ you don’t have folk walking down towards you.   We passed some interesting rock formations along the way and also an interesting tree trunk.  Now can you see anyone peeping out?

Rain Shelter?

Arriving at the lookout we take our turn at getting photos as now there are people everywhere it seems.  The view is still magic, like before, but we decide against the 90min return walk from here down to the beach and settle for just the lookout.  Finding a spare rock we sit ourselves and enjoy an apple and a chocolate as a reward before starting the track back down to the car-park. 

Wineglass Bay

Driving back towards Coles Bay we turn off and take the road to Cape Tourville and the lighthouse walk.  This is a walk that is wheelchair friendly so no need for rest breaks here.  The view again is spectacular back along the coast and as the coastline has curved further east we can actually see the entrance to Wineglass Bay from our vantage point.  There is no mistaking that white sand in the distance.   

looking south

There are two large rocky islands just off the coast from us and they look like happy homes for various sea birds.  The sign advised that if we travelled due east of our point we would hit the mid coast of the South Island of New Zealand.  Also the yachts in the Sydney to Hobart race can be seen passing from this point.  Fortunately for us the day was fine with only light cloud and a cooool breeze so visibility all around was good.

What more could you ask for than after returning to base, a spectacular sunset to finish the day.