down into timber country

And it was.  We spent the day at the showground and wandered the various exhibits including handcraft (of course), jams and pickles, floral displays and the vegetables.  Of course I had to go into the Wool pavilion, feel the various fleeces and then wander back there later when there was a spinning demonstration.  I had a lovely chat to Ann (a local Melanin (coloured) sheep breeder) and picked up some more hints on improving my spinning.  We watched the woodchop competition and applauded the young teen (about 16) as he persisted till he finished with each of his chops.  Was good to see the older more experienced axemen but especially to see the younger men continuing this age old craft at shows.  The sheep dog trials are always interesting and entertainment when you want to have a sit down (and enjoy an ice-cream) and this 123^rd annual Bridgetown show was no different.  The final effort by the dogs was to round up some geese, force them across a bridge and into their carry box ready for the trip home.  Much applause for a job well done was given at the end.  The rain stayed away although there were some threatening clouds overhead at various times and the day stayed quite cool (jeans and jumper all day).  The girls that did the Zumba demonstration were wiping perspiration from their brows however as they hardly stopped moving for 20 minutes.  We felt tired just watching them.  Along with the 4 female trick horse riders ‘girl power’ was certainly well represented.

The market on Sunday was quite small however we did pick up some local honey and fresh vegies as well as enjoy the walk along the river.  In the afternoon we went for a drive up to Greenbushes and called into the lookout over the open cut mine. 

This is considered the longest continually operated mine in WA.  It started as a tin mine in the 1800’s and has now changed to other various metals including Lithium.  I at least know that this is used for batteries however the other metals were words I have never heard of let alone know how to spell!  The drive back to Bridgetown took us through lovely forest country and we called into the Jarrah Park and enjoyed a picnic afternoon tea before a walk through the mighty trees.  Karri, Jarrah and Marri soared high into the air and gave us a taste of what is to come further into this south west timber area of WA.  There were still wildflowers to be seen hiding under parts of the tree canopy so we are still enjoying finding different plants to those seen up north.

Leaving Bridgetown we head to Manjimup and visited the Timber Park and Museum. 

What a great place to visit (and free).  The museum tells the story of those early forestry workers and the mill towns of the south west area of WA.  There are old pieces of machinery on display, a steam display that shows some of the engines used to power parts of the mill, old felling equipment including the first chainsaw and buildings of a timber village including the school, police station and gaol, doctor and a timber workers cottage. 

school hut

 We spent an easy 2 hours wandering around before walking up to the local bakery (yes did it again) and enjoyed a lunchtime treat.  Well we did walk a fair way!

Leaving Manjimup we headed to Pemberton in the tall timber country where we have checked in for a week.  We plan to do a day trip to Albany (to pick up our mail) and have a look around without staying there.  We have visited there previously so there is no great draw card calling us back whilst this timber country is so pretty and has so much to offer that we would rather enjoy the time here.

another family of 'campers' at the park

returning to Busselton

Wednesday and looking up you would think there was a storm building.  The smoke in the sky just looks like thunderheads.  This was the smoke from the devastating bushfires that claimed over 30 homes around Prevelly, just up the road from us and on the coast from Margaret River.  To think we had driven through there on Monday on our way down and had spoken of the smoke that could be seen in various areas of bushland.  There were signs up about controlled burn off being done and unfortunately that was what the fierce winds on Wednesday were to flare up to become an inferno. 

Thursday morning and we headed out having decided that we should return to the Caravan Doctor in Busselton about the troublesome brake on the left side of the van.  Lawrie had spoken to a few folk in Augusta and discussed the situation with the local mechanic so off we go back west.  The Caves Road we had driven down is cut as the fires are still raging so we decide to travel the more inland route to take us away from all the fire area.  We make an appointment to be there for 8.30am on Friday so find ourselves a site for the night and then up and out early the next morning.  We spent the next morning sitting around down at the waterfront just waiting….and waiting.  We had been going to walk out along the jetty (would be something to do) however they wanted $2.50 per person to walk it!!  I could understand the charge for riding the train that runs but to walk it….that seemed a little much, so we didn’t.  Finally just after lunch we were able to pick up Destiny and set off once again.  It seems that the brake drum needed re-machining as it had gone out ‘of round’.  Hopefully now all is fixed and we can continue with ease of mind.

Out towards Nannup and then to Boyanup and on to Bridgetown.  We drove through hilly forest areas and alongside the Blackwood River (the longest river in WA).  Timber everywhere and smoke.  Seems there is a fire that had been burning near Nannup (now under control) and the smoke was still down in the trees and valleys.  Bridgetown is to be our stop for a few days (let everyone else have the weekend we say) and so after booking in we find that the local show is on Saturday and a market near the caravan park on Sunday!  Oh well should be entertaining.

Augusta

The trip down the Caves Road towards Augusta takes us through more  vineyards and across to Margaret River before then returning to the Caves Road then into the Boyanup Karri Forest.  What a pretty drive, tall graceful trees everywhere we look and the air just that little cooler as we are shaded by the foliage. 

Margaret River is the typical ‘tourist’ town certainly not catering for the passing tourist who might want to park their van for a while in order to explore the village.  We enjoyed our cuppa at the local Lions Park beside the river and then drove through and out the other side on our way south.  So much for there!

We were still having trouble with the vans brakes however enquiries at a couple of places gave Lawrie some hints on other things to try so we kept on tracking with limited success.  Fortunately Augusta was less than 50kms away so we felt safe in making the trip.  We arrived soon after lunch and decided we would stay here for 3 nights so as to make the best of it.  Great van park, well set out and green grass all around.  The park backs on to the mouth of the Blackwood River as it empties into Flinders Bay.  Augusta is a small township, few shops, one garage (no gas), Post Office, the necessary tavern and bottle shop and a couple of takeaway food stores.  At least the IGA supermarket has a good selection so we were not left wanting for any groceries.

One of the ‘must do’s’ of this trip was to go to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet at the mainland’s most south westerly point. 

 We had seen on a documentary that you could see the waves running into each other as they came from different directions and of course we wanted to see this for ourselves.  Well we did and wow what a sight! 

The lighthouse was built in 1895/6 and had three families living there so that the light was attended to 24/7.  The last family left in 1998 following the lighthouse became totally mechanised in 1992. 

It is the tallest lighthouse on Australia’s mainland and is still an important part of protecting the shipping along our coastline.  The electric white light now installed has the intensity of one million candlepower and a range of 25 nautical miles.  In those early days most of the shipping to Australia came via the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Leeuwin was often the first Australian landfall.  The lighthouse had first been proposed in 1881 but the Eastern colonies rejected that they should contribute to the cost (even though most shipping was going there) so finally it was the colony of Western Australia who undertook the full cost of over 7,700 pounds (at that time).

                            one of the residents at the lighthouse being checked out by Lawrie

Our day out also included a drive back along the way to Hamelin Bay which we had bypassed yesterday on our way south.  A caravan park, boat ramp and some homes were the only signs of habitation that we saw. 

There were folk swimming in the crystal clear waters and some fishing folk were returning in their boats whilst we sat on the rocks and enjoyed the sunshine and view.  We chatted to a couple from Dundee in Scotland who are en-route to NZ to visit their son.   It has been interesting to find folk from all parts of the world and hear their impressions as we have travelled around our own country.  At the lighthouse we had chatted to an Italian couple (she on a Gopher) as we explained about the waves coming from different directions.  They had a little English and we were able to enjoy a conversation as they told us of their son in Perth and that they are planning on spending New Year’s Eve in Sydney so what an adventure for them.   Meanwhile our adventure continues with us spending the next couple of days just relaxing and walking the riverfront here in Augusta (that’s after the washing and cake cooking has been taken care of)!

Bunbury to Augusta

Our day in Bunbury whilst waiting for Destiny to be attended to was spent by taking a drive to the scenic lookout just on the edge of the city.  There is a tower to climb (many steps) and the view from the top is quite impressive. 

 We watched a large ship come into dock for loading at the wood chip wharf whilst we enjoyed our cuppa.  Later we drove along the coastline and sat and enjoyed the sun whilst having lunch.  Soon after lunch the phone call came advising that all was done so $264 later we are finally off out of town.  Busselton is less than 50km away so we set off confidently.  Arriving down there we stop to check out a van park (looks packed to the rafters) so enjoy our cuppa and Lawrie checks the wheels now we are stopped.  Sure enough the left side is much hotter than the right so after a phone call to Ernie in Bunbury Lawrie slackened off the brake setting on that side.  We set off again and decide to go look for another van park and find one on the south side of town with a walkway to the beach.  Not a busy park and a walk to the beach later in the afternoon shows us the vista of Geographe Bay boasting 30km of pristine white sandy beaches.  Busselton has the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere (1.841km in length and 145yrs old) and at the end there is an underwater observatory where for a fee you can view the local inhabitants and corals.

Next morning we are off to Dunsborough and the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse for a view back along the coastline of Geographe Bay.  There is a fee to enter the grounds of the lighthouse or to join a guided tour so we find a spot to enjoy our pre-packed thermos and then drive back to Dunsborough which was settled in the early 1800’s to serve the whaling fleet that called in for water and supplies.  In the mid 1800’s the first load of wood was exported to India from this area.

Next week is ‘Schoolies’ and we have been told that Dunsborough, Busselton and even Margaret River can be the destination for those young school leavers wanting to celebrate the end of their years in school.   Needless to say we do not intend to be here to share it with them so after a look around we head off down towards Margaret River to a quiet little park at Gracetown.  No unaccompanied minors allowed here so a couple of nights in this park will suit us fine.

                                                                  coastline at Gracetown

We spend the next day doing a ‘tourist’ drive through the area.   Firstly to a supposedly ‘world of alpaca’ but it was only a winery with a shop selling alpaca garments!  Not an animal or fleece in sight.  Not to worry, as it is then off to the Margaret River Chocolate Factory (expensive products) followed by the Providore Store (yummy jam for me but expensive), then to the Cheese Factory (some for both of us at a more reasonable price) followed up after lunch at Cowaramup (check out the photos) with a visit to the Miller Farm Ice-cream Shop.

Yes lunch was simply a sandwich and cup of coffee from home but wow the tastings at the Chocolate Factory (light and dark buttons) and then again at the Cheese Factory, certainly left you feeling well nourished.  Then for sweets came the ice-cream.  Made from cream from their farm cows the flavours were delicious and of course we each had a double serve.  So creamy, it was well worth the visit.  The farm has ensured their shop is surrounded by lush green grass so that the families who call in can happily let the children run around barefoot and the playground has a white sand base.  There were quite a few families out there today and the children were certainly having a great time.  The smiles on their faces as they walked out the shop with their ice-cream cone was worth sitting there to watch.

On our way home we decided to drive into Gracetown and down to the coast to check out the views.  Another small coastal town with clear clean water, white sand and basalt rock along the coastline.  From the viewing platform at the carpark we could see some whale spouts out at sea so walked along the path towards the viewing platform out on the south point. 

Along the way there is a memorial to a cliff tragedy that happened in September 1996 when at a primary school surf carnival 2000 tonnes of rock and sand fell onto spectators below.  5 adults and 4 children were killed that day and the memorial has the names of those lost cut into stainless steel waves on the top of the cliff.

From the point we could occasionally see spouts as the whale pod made its way south along the coast.  It was very windy so standing there on the exposed coastline was a little chilly despite the warm sunshine.  Seemed a good time to head back to the van park and settle in for the remainder of the afternoon as tomorrow we head out again towards Augusta.

on the road again out of Perth

Finally we left Perth after three weeks, to head out to explore the south west of WA.

We decided to drive down the quieter South Western H’way towards Bunbury instead of taking the freeway.  Not much in the way of wildflowers now, however we did find some when we stopped for the night at the Coalfields Road Rest Area (on the road to Collie).  By taking a bit of a detour to here we can head into Bunbury the next morning for a look around and then find a freebie for the next night as well.  Our campsite is in the bush off the road and we were surprised at the amount of traffic travelling to and from Collie.  There is a huge open cut coal mine the other side of Collie and watching the buses etc that went past it seemed that the workforce may all travel in by vehicle each shift.  Walking around our bush setting I again find some ‘different’ wildflowers (purple flags I find they are called).  Next morning we head back to the highway and into Bunbury.  The Information Centre provided us with a local map and we decided to travel Ocean Drive.  There are 3 huge ships that can be seen anchored offshore waiting to enter port for loading or unloading.  The foreshore has been developed and provides roomy parking so that we can enjoy our morning cuppa whilst we check out the basalt cliffs and the site of the old quarry.  Bunbury has certainly built up since we last visited in 1996 and it is now WA’s second biggest city.  Having again bought some groceries it is time to head out of town and a circuit drive out to Boyanup, Donnybrook and then back towards Capel.

Along the road the fields have been harvested for winter feed and there are rolls everywhere.  Some have been stacked up side by side, others are still awaiting collection from the field whilst some are huge round rolls, others are the usual bale size, whilst others are bales at least 4 times that size.

We settled for the night at Ironstone Gully Falls rest area heading towards Capel.  Thought we would probably be the only ones there however before too long we are joined by two other caravans, a small motorhome and a ‘wizz bang’.  Lawrie was kept entertained by the antics of the small A van driver who decided to turn around in the middle of the bush, not on a track but actually in the midst of the scrub.  He almost jack-knifed the van and came close to hitting the other van that was parked behind us, so much entertainment.

Lawrie decided to take advantage of our campsite to check out the brakes and wheel bearings on the van.  Seemed a seal had failed on the driver side so we decide to head back to Bunbury the next morning to have them checked out properly.  We have arranged for this to happen tomorrow (Friday) morning so we are now set up in a van park for the day (raining quite nicely) so not a sight-seeing day anyway.

day trip to York WA

During our time in Perth we also enjoyed a day out to York.  This is the oldest settlement in WA outside Perth.  The original settlement was started in 1836 and some of the old buildings are now heritage listed.  We visited on a weekday and it was noticeably quiet in the town.  My sister tells me that it is mainly a weekend destination and that is when the markets etc are open.  We enjoyed a wander around the old buildings and checked out the undercover Motor Museum in the main street.  This is well worth a visit for any vintage car buff.  There is also a working sock factory that can be visited.

We drove up to the lookout over the town and were amazed at the 360 degree view that greeted us.  What a panorama. 

Our circular trip had taken us along the Brookton H’way up through Beverley to York and then back along the Great Eastern H’way into Perth.

Kings Park

Perth city from Kings Park

State War Memorial at Kings Park

Kings Park has also been a must visit destination for us on this stop-over in Perth.  We had last been here in the 1970’s when we lived in WA and although the park has changed it has certainly been improved.  We were able to wander around and explore various areas and find names for many of the plants we have seen on our wanderings. 

scarlett banksia

ground hugging banksia

Also of course we could find up close and personal the lovely Kangaroo Paws that are the State’s symbol.  Red, yellow, green and black paws were in flower so the trigger finger was off and going again.  Showers had been around for a few days so we ventured off one morning when it looked favourable and fortunately we were worn out by the time the clouds blew back up and again dropped some rain. 

wildflowers at Kings Park

I have been fortunate to find a Spinners group and enjoyed a Melbourne Cup lunch with them, helped run their two sweeps and continued to win both sweeps!!  Never happened before during my time at work where as Finance Manager it always fell my way as an annual task.  The Atwell Spinners meet every Tuesday so again this week I was able to go along and take part in ‘rainbow dyeing’ using a microwave.  What a great time we all had.  I learnt so much and came away with my two skeins nicely coloured.   Now what am I going to make them into??  I certainly enjoyed the friendship I encountered with this wonderful group and have promised to keep in touch as we travel further on our way.

Ellie getting us started with the various colours

the skein undergoing some change

nearly completed.

now for the 'cooking' in the microwave

now to dry then......

three days out of Perth

Being into our second week in the suburbs we decided to take a trip for a few days (without the van) and travel north of the city along the coast before turning inland and returning through part of the wheat belt. 

Our first day was fine and sunny and quite warm.  The drive along the Mitchell Freeway was trouble free and within an hour of leaving we were well clear of the suburban sprawl and driving into Yanchep for morning tea. The ocean was green and clear against the white sands of the beaches. 

Our parking stop for our break was above the lagoon area where there is a border of reef providing a safe area for swimming by families.  There were quite a few mums with little children enjoying the water whilst we were there.  We also encountered a multitude of flies, ladybirds and another flying insect about the size of a small wasp (with no sting) that mugged us as soon as we set foot outside the car.  This pattern was to continue for the rest of the day at every stop we made.  Seems this is the result of being a ‘good’ season for breeding following rain earlier in the year.  It certainly made for an interesting day!

Leaving Yanchep our road then changed from Wanneroo Road to the new Indian Ocean Drive.  This coastal road to Geraldton was only completed earlier this year and provides easy access to the small coastal communities along this scenic west coast.  We called in to each of them as we travelled towards Cervantes and the Pinnacles Desert Park.

mouth of the Moore River at Guilderton

Guilderton at the mouth of the Moore River, Seabird, Ledge Point and Lancelin are all small communities started by fisherman that all offer pristine water and beaches. 

the beach at Lancelin

 I am sure that during school holiday time they are all quite busy with visitors.  They all have small permanent populations (a few hundred folk at most) and provide basic services and offer a relaxed holiday time for all.  No freebie camping sites however and there are many signs advising this.  We were quite surprised as to how clean each of the settlements looked.  Even the older homes and cottages were still neat and tidy so a big congratulations to all those that live in these delightful areas. 

Bobtail at the Pinnacles Desert Park

It was mid-afternoon before we arrived at the Pinnacles Desert Park and after visiting the Interpretive Centre and gift shop for a quick look around, we then took the 4km self-drive tour through the park.     What a fascinating time. 

These amazing limestone structures were created from ancient shells, remnants of another epoch rich in marine life.  Over the millennia, natural processes have combined to remove surrounding material to result in the limestone pinnacles jutting out from their surrounds today.  Dutch sailors who first sighted the area in the mid 1650’s mistook the Pinnacles for ruins of an ancient civilisation.

W A's grass tree in flower

Our first overnight stop was at the Cervantes Pinnacles Motel and the most expensive ‘standard’ room we have ever had.  $145 per night, very basic room and not even a toaster to use.  Yes there was shower gel, hand wash, shampoo etc but no gilt taps or silk sheets so, quite a little overpriced. 

Next morning we drove out to the nearby Lake Thetis and the interesting stromatolites. This is one of just 5 sites in WA where they can be seen.  They grow in the lake and are made up of the oldest known organisms on earth.  Some fossil remains have been dated as old as 3.6 billion years!  The area has interpretive signposts around the lake and especially at the viewing platform where photos can easily be taken.

stromatolites at Lake Thetis

Leaving the Cervantes area we head further up the coast to Jurien Bay (the biggest settlement, approx.1600) a fishing town.  Offshore is the Jurien Bay Marine Park which is sheltered by a string of islands and reefs that protects a unique mix of tropical and temperate species including sea lions, dolphins and breeding seabirds.

Green Head is our last stop on the coast and we stopped for lunch at Dynamite Bay where we enjoyed a chat with Steve who is travelling on his own in a camper van and had some interesting stories to tell.  The flies thankfully were not so bad as yesterday and we could eat outside the car.

Our trip then turned us inland away from the main highway towards Eneabba and that was when the wildflowers started again.  We continue to find new and different plants and so the photo finger gets a workout again.  Fortunately with not having the van behind, doing a u turn in order to check another one out is no big drama. 

quandong

banksia we found along the way

sandhills near Cervantes....anyone for a slide?

The threatening showers start to set in during the afternoon and the last hour or so into Carnamah where we plan to stop is through quite solid rain, so even though the road verge is covered in mauve flowers I cannot get a clear photo, but it still looked delightful.

Our third day saw us turning for home along some back roads down to Moora and then out to the Great Northern Highway so that we could call into New Norcia.  This area is home to a community of Benedictine monks who own and operate the town. 

Olive trees, church bells and 27 magnificent Spanish-style buildings (classified by the National Trust) sit naturally in the bush landscape.  The museum and art gallery contain one of the finest collections of moveable heritage in Australia.  It houses artworks by Spanish and Italian masters, gifts from the Queen of Spain and a fascinating array of artefacts which tell the story of New Norcia’s time as an Aboriginal mission, a centre of the monks’ extensive farming activities and as a place of education and culture. 

Once more down though Bindoon and into the Swan Valley, through vineyards and past horse spelling paddocks.  Just look at all those young foals with their mums. 

Our three days away has been an enjoyable time for us both and we have certainly enjoyed the beauty and diversity of the areas we have travelled through.