Tuesday 29th March 2011

Another day of touring.  This time we headed for Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula.  The round trip was just over 300km (well we did detour a bit as we like to drive different roads).  We travelled along the northern side of the Derwent River this time to see the sights from a different perspective.  There had been a heavy fog this morning and as we drove towards Hobart we could see the sky clearing.  It seems that Hobart does not get the heavy fogs that are common back up in the valley around New Norfolk.  Looking back up the river as we crossed towards Bridgewater you could see the fog still down very low and very thick.  We turned onto the Tasman Highway and then headed out passing the airport and on to Sorell after crossing Pitt Water.  This large expanse of water is crossed by two bridges and the water was calm and there are lots of boats moored in the various bays.  Sorell is a pretty spot and quite a busy commercial hub.  There are fruit farms and vineyards again on show and lots of signs for B&B’s.   At Sorell we leave the Tasman Highway which continues up the east coast, and turn onto the Arthur Highway that takes us out to the Peninsula.  Vineyards, cattle, sheep and orchards along with more timber plantations are everywhere.   You don’t have to wonder why Tasmania is called the ‘Apple Isle’.

Our first cuppa stop is at Dunalley before crossing a bridge to Forestier Peninsula which then joins to the Tasman Peninsula at Eaglehawk Neck.  Dunalley is a small village and but it is the sight of the local area school and there are fishing boats moored at the jetty.  One large boat is up on the slip and having the hull scraped before being repainted.  It looked a long slow process as we watched the man slowly scraping away.

Pirate Bay penquin sanctuary

At Pirate Bay the residents have built fences to keep out dogs and cats and also tunnels for the penquins to use instead of crossing the road to their burrows.  This has helped to reduce the loss of life and as this is one of the last colonies of Little Penquins in Tasmania it is assisting with conservation.

Crossing Forestier Peninsula takes you towards Eaglehawk Neck and the Tessellated Pavement.  This is quite interesting to see and I remember it from our previous trip in 1993.  The rocks in this particular area have been affected by different geological events and cracks form in a criss-cross pattern with the assistance of salt crystals.  As the crystals build up the cracks become more evident.  It is just like looking down on to a tiled floor.  Amazing what can happen.

Eaglehawk Neck was the site for the Dog Line during the time of the penal settlement at Port Arthur.  The line of 18 dogs was in force from 1834 to 1877 and the idea was that the dogs would deter convicts from trying to escape across that narrow neck of land.  The information states that some dogs were even out on rocks in the water in case the convicts tried to swim to freedom.  The fierce looking statue indicates how frightening this dog line must have been.

Just a little further on from here is the Tasman Blowhole, Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen.  All three are examples of the timeless erosion of the sandstone cliffs along the coastline.  The ocean was fairly tame today and so with waves not being rough the blowhole was fairly sedate.   As the photos show the hole is not great and there is still much sandstone above.  There is also a lookout on the coastline and the views both north and south from there were quite spectacular.

looking south

The Tasman Arch however has eroded much more and the arch is quite pronounced. 

The Devils Kitchen is where the sandstone has completely eroded and collapsed.  When you look at the height of the cliff you cannot help but wonder at the time it has taken for all that erosion.

Doo Town is a unique place to visit.  Many of the homes there have names incorporating doo, eg Doo Us, It ll doo, Make Doo, Af 2 Doo and so on.   Some of the homes look quite old so maybe they were fisher folks’ weekenders once upon a time.  There are some newer homes also and some of the names seem to indicate that (not the sort of thing I would write).

We return to the highway and continue on towards Port Arthur, the penal colony site that is so well known.  We had visited here on our previous trip and had spent quite some time walking around the complex.  Since that visit in 1993 there is now a new visitors centre and everything is much more structured (and expensive).  We did walk into the visitors centre and have a look around, however we did not do another tour of the complex. The ruins themselves have not changed and my memory of those is still quite clear (and there are photos from that trip).  Driving out there however I could not help but think of the day Martin Bryant opened fire and shot and injured so many folk.  How far did the medical help have to come from, how much time would that have taken, Sorell was a good hour away.  Port Arthur can make one feel quite helpless and forlorn and not just because you see how the prisoners were so cruelly treated and housed.

Driving on from there we drive towards Nubeena on the western side of the peninsula and what a busy little place that is.  Seems it has become the hub for this area as there is quite a big school, medical facilities, emergency services etc.     We complete the circuit back to Taranna where the Devil Conservation Park is situated.  Again we had visited here in 1993 so this trip was more about exploring the countryside than visiting the attractions.  Driving back to Sorell we decide to take another way home and check out a possible route with Destiny on Thursday when we start heading up the east coast.  We would prefer not to come down the way we had this morning and avoid much of the traffic if possible.  So from Sorell we head north along the highway and then turn off and make our way through some minor roads through Tea Tree to Brighton on the Midland Highway which is just north of Bridgewater.   Yep, seems the go for Thursday.  However as we don’t have the van on at present there is no reason why we can’t do another detour home this afternoon and try some more dirt road.  After all there hasn’t been any rain for a few days so we turn off again at Brighton and head for home via Mt Dromedary.  This takes us up and over a mountain again along dirt road that is quite narrow but for the most part with no other traffic.  We climb quite high and the views back up through the valley are quite spectacular.  Tall timbers again and thick bush with homes tucked away in lots of out of the way places.  Life sure would be quiet up here and yet you are only 35mins from the city.  This little detour brings us out back to the road on the north side of the river and we are only about 15mins from home.  There are single scull rowers out practicing on the river and a speedboat with a water skier as well enjoying the late afternoon sunshine.  Not necessarily in the same stretch of water of course.  The poplar trees along the river bank are changing more in colour and becoming much more yellow.  Maybe we should visit Pulpit Rock lookout again before we leave to take another photo and see if the difference shows.   

Monday 28th March 2011

Today we set off to drive the south eastern side of Tasmania – the Huon Way.  We left at 9.30am and arrived home at 6.15pm travelling a total of 327km.  What a great day.  Weather was again perfect, just like yesterday with a clear sky and the sun warming us nicely.  There is a cool breeze blowing so standing in the shade needed a jacket. 

First stop was Kingston where we found Kingston Beach and a lovely park as our cuppa break.  The beach formed a gentle curve and the Derwent River influenced by Storm Bay had gentle ankle waves breaking on the sand.  It certainly seemed a popular place for mums and littlies as there were at least 4 groups enjoying the beach.  Back to Kingston and then we headed down the Channel Highway which would take us towards Snug and Kettering (catch the vehicular ferry to Bruny Island) and just a little further down the highway we have a photo opportunity and wow there was the ferry actually crossing.  I had spotted the lovely sailing boat moored just below us and wanted to snap that when we saw the ferry coming to top it off.

Bruny Isl ferry in background

view across the Huon River

Finally around the bottom of this peninsular and we head up to Cygnet along the eastern side of the Huon River.  This was to be our lunch stop and we were taken by some of the lovely old buildings still in the little town. 

Catholic church and college building

We had been passing apple orchards along the road along with Hereford cattle grazing contentedly on the lush grass.  The mountain sides are covered with timber and there are log trucks carrying their huge loads.  At Geeveston we stop to photograph a huge log that was cut down in 1971.  The information advised that there had been another piece chosen to be for the display however it was so heavy it could not be carried and this second piece had to be cut. 

Imagine what the whole tree must have looked like?  In Tasmania any tree over 86 metres is now classified as a Giant Tree and is protected.  Swamp Gums are quite prolific and are also known as Tasmanian Oak.

Southport is our most southern destination for this visit to the Apple Isle.  Our trip has been along twisting roads as the mountains are quite close to the coastline down this end of the island.  Most of the names along the highway have been just small villages and Southport is no different.  A hotel with a caravan park attached and a few other buildings are all that is to be seen.  Fishing boats are moored at the jetty and Cape Bruny lighthouse is visible from the coast reached by driving down a short road. 

Cape Bruny lighthouse in distance

sea kelp in the swells

Down below us we could see kelp swaying in the water as the surges from the Tasman Sea came rolling into the bay.  Today the water was calm with little wind so what must it be like when the weather is blowing from the south.

There is an outlet from a tannin stained creek across the sand near the jetty.  The water is rushing out so our guess is that the creek is tidal. 

Standing watching the rushing brown water suddenly there is a loud splash noise.  We look around and see that the sandy sides of the outlet are falling in as the rushing water undermines them.  This must happen every time the water runs out, it was quite intriguing.  Needless to say the camera worked overtime to try and capture what was happening.

By the time we have a cuppa and decide to turn for home it has been 6 hours and 197 km since we left.  But a very enjoyable 6 hours.

The return trip takes us back through Huonville and Longley along the Huon Highway.  This road seems as though it might be the old highway back to Hobart as it is quite twisty and only two lanes as opposed to the 4 lanes that went back to the coast towards Kingston.  However the views to the east are fantastic, only problem is finding somewhere to stop for a photo.  We had been on the Hobart end of this road when we went to Mt Wellington the other day so now we were able to enjoy the views coming from the southern end.  Found another waterfall (Silver Falls) just before Fern Tree and we were able to stop and admire.  The rock looked so smooth from water running over it constantly and again what must it be like after heavy rain?

The trip to the south eastern coast below Hobart have shown us apple orchards, vineyards, timber, beef cattle and fishing as being industries that are keeping this area busy.  Evidence of catering for tourists is visible everywhere either with cafes, wineries and tastings, fruit stalls and craft displays happening all along the highway.  There were bed and breakfast signs along with the various camping sites for caravans and motorhomes all along the highway so the opportunity to explore this wonderful area is there.  Just needs to be warnings given about the drivers using both sides of the double white lines.

Friday 25th March 2011

Showers look to still be about but let that not stop us from having another day of discovery.  We had originally been going to leave today however have decided to stay for another week.  We really do like it here in New Norfolk and I guess the fact that I have been having trouble with my right arm for the last few days is another good reason to stay and try and rest it as much as possible.  I have been relieved of all cooking and washing up responsibilities by my lovely man and it really is hard to take…..really.  Never mind, maybe this time I will learn not to reach behind in the car to get something from the back seat.  This is the third time I have hurt the right shoulder doing just that.  As I say, maybe this time I will learn.  Pain killers and ice are starting to have an effect however so improvement is coming.

We checked out the map and decided we would head out down the Huon Trail today so thermos etc all packed and ready.  Head out and decide to take another short cut to bypass the city!!!!  Will we never learn……remember the up and down mountain thing…..well this road took us to what would become a ‘4wd only with all recovery equipment’ track (so the sign said) so needless to say we then did an about turn and came back to the highway and decided to take the road we should have driven yesterday (and not miss the turn) and this took us the other side of the mountain we went up and down so the scenery was different.  No dirt road this time so just shows we can read maps after all.  Stopped for a cuppa after we met back with the highway and pulled into a park beside the river we had admired each time we had passed going to or from the city.  Would you believe it there in the carpark is the couple, Peter and Dianne, we met up with at Fossey River and again in Strahan so needless to say over 2hrs later we finally left.  Seems a trip down the Huon Trail is a bit out of the question now however whilst with Peter and Dianne we noticed that for the first time we could see the top of Mt Wellington, so let’s change the plan slightly and head up there. 

Found our way to the turnoff and then wow what a climb. 

Hobart from the top

 Mt Wellington is 1270 metres high and the road was completed in 1937.  The road winds around the mountain as you climb and you have views as you go of all directions.  Can you imagine those vehicles of the late 1930’s making the trip.  Following the rain of the last few days there are waterfalls running down the banks beside the road everywhere.  Just magical.  The road is fairly narrow however so there is not much chance to stop and take photos so just have to wait till we get to the top.  The clouds continued to blow in and over and then the sun would shine again but the wind….oh my gosh…..the wind was like ice.  I reckon the temperature up there was just above freezing….or my face thought so anyway.  Daryl, our son, will understand when we say ‘thank goodness for our 1R coats’. 

There is a viewing boardwalk with an interpretive centre up there (shelter from the wind) and then there are the rock formations on top called ‘The Pinnacles’ and the telecommunications tower that has a special fibreglass coating to ensure that it is not affected by lumps of ice that form and fall. 

The info states that the temperature at the top can be 10 degrees cooler than down in the city and I can well believe it.  The plants growing up there are all ‘high country’ (above 1100m) plants and there are no trees.  Down below this level the mountain is covered in thick bush and the building of the road was certainly a feat in itself.  The info stated that it had not been a popular decision at the time to build the road and citizens had believed it would spoil the mountain.  Fortunately the work went ahead and has enabled peoples from all around the world to enjoy the incredible views available (when weather allows).

The Pinnacles and a shelter at the top of Mt Wellington

Thursday 24th March 2011

Raining again this morning and a little on the cooooool side!  Decided to make the most of it however and make a thermos and pack the picnic box and head out towards Richmond.  This is the site of one of Tasmania’s early settlements and convicts were sent there in 1820 to build a bridge to enable an easier transport of produce to Hobart Town from the many farms that had been established in the general area.  The poor pets even had to build their own gaol for their comrades who dared to try and escape.

The bridge completed in 1823 is still standing proudly today and a testament to the skill of those ‘outcasts’ sent to the penal colonies.  We enjoyed a cuppa beside the bridge and walked along and below the structure.  Was just another ‘wow’ moment.  When we were here previously we visited Richmond and photographed the bridge and fed the ducks.  Well there must be grandducks there now and certainly a great number of them.  They were all sitting quietly on the banks until someone (no not me) decided to throw some bread for them.  Well those little legs went ten to the dozen as they tried to beat each other to the next chunk.  Even seagulls appeared once the food was on.  There are many of the original buildings constructed from local sandstone blocks hewn by hand all those years ago still standing along the main street.  Bed and Breakfasts are a popular use now along with various craft outlets or eateries.  I popped into The Lace Shop to have a peek and started chatting to the owner.  Seems we were neighbours before they moved from Brissie to Richmond.  They just lived up on Manly Rd, less than 1km from us.  She was telling me that 3 of the businesses in town are now owned and run by Queenslanders.   Just another example of how small the world really is.

We enjoyed a lunch at the local bakery……yes those who know Lawrie know that is not unusual.  The texture of those thick walls and the stories they could tell just warm our hearts.  Of course being a great place to shelter from the rain showers that decided to start whilst we were there is a minor detail!  Those showers just kept up for so long we nearly had to have another cup of coffee and a piece of cake……heaven forbid!  Fortunately the showers eased enough for us to make a dash for the car without getting toooooo wet. 

The drive home of course had to be slightly different to the way we went so we decided to try a ‘shortcut’ we saw on the map.  Well yes of course we made it….eventually.  It was pretty interesting, up and down a mountain (as usual) and even dirt road.  Well that was because we missed a right turn, so now Bruiser needs another wash.  There were houses all the way scattered in the bush and you wonder how they found the sites in the first place.  Lots of water flowing in the creeks and the last couple of days of rain would have contributed.  Sure would be peace and quiet living there.

Monday 21st March 2011

Headed out west of NN along the Lyell Highway along the southern side of the Derwent River.  Poplar trees are starting to change colour and one can only wonder at how they will look in a few weeks.  I have a real love of autumn colours as we don’t see them too much at home.   We drove out to the Salmon Ponds which incorporates a trout hatchery.  This hatchery was started back in the 1850’s when they attempted to bring salmon ova from England by ship attempting different ways of keeping the ova cool so that they did not die before arriving in Tasmania.  It was interesting to read of the various methods that were tried before finally in 1864 success was obtained in using wooden boxes with the ova packed into ice and moss and the boxes packed into the cool room on the boat.  There were some trout ova also sent along with this first successful transportation and those trout were released into the lakes areas of the central highlands where their descendants are still swimming today.  We enjoyed wandering throughout the beautiful park and riverside walk that has been developed.

Golden Ash at Salmon Ponds

  There are bbq’s with picnic tables and chairs so that folk can enjoy the location.  We walked along the river walk and noticed that there were signs that special fishing access jetties had been built for use by those with disabilities.  These facilities can only be used by those who qualify and hold a fishing licence.  Walking out onto these jetties we were able to throw some of the fish food we had purchased into the Plenty River and feed trout that were swimming free.  Wow that was great, actual fish in the wild not just in the ponds.  There was one pond that held albino trout and they looked interesting. 

Albino Trout

Swimming in the tannin stained water they looked to be a shade of yellow however when they came to the surface to feed on the pellets we threw, you could see that they were quite white as opposed to the rainbow and brown trout that were in the other ponds.  There were also some tiger trout which were achieved by crossing two different trouts together.  They were basically brown however had a dark pattern all over them.

We then drove on to Mt Field National Park and the walk to the beautiful Russell Falls. 

Russell Falls

 These are so photogenic and have starred in many calendars throughout the years.  We enjoyed a bushwalk to the top of the falls and then checked out the Horseshoe Falls as well. 

Horseshoe Falls

Further along the walk we came to the Tall Timbers section however we had seem some tall timbers as we walked through the forest.

Tall Timber cut down

  We were also lucky enough to see small animals we believe to be Rufus Wallabies.  Our walk was during the latter part of the afternoon so the animals were probably starting to come out for their evening dinner.  The temperature changed as we walked along the track from quite cool in the deeper forest to being much warmer as we started to emerge towards the visitors’ centre.  Sunlight dappling through the tree canopy onto the moss coverings on the fallen timber along with the many tree ferns growing on the forest floor made interesting patterns and you felt as if you needed to check for the fairies and gnomes that were surely there somewhere.

On our way home we passed beside hop fields some undergoing harvest.  There was a processing factory that we passed and there was a faint hops aroma in the air.  You can only wonder at what it would be like when processing is at full steam.

Tuesday found us achieving a long held goal and visiting the Cadbury factory at Claremont in Hobart.  There was an entry fee of $7.50 per person however that then meant you were handed a 200g block of milk chocolate and entry to the display that is held every 30 mins.  This included a presentation about chocolate production and a handout of snack size chocolate bars before then moving to watch a short video providing a better understanding of production.  As our presenter said ‘you can’t watch a video without chocolate to eat’ so there were more snack chocolates available for each of us.  Following the video we then moved to the ‘taste’ section of the presentation.  We were offered pure cocoa, cocoa butter, milk, dark and white chocolate to try.  Who needed lunch?  Of course the pure cocoa was quite bitter to taste and the cocoa butter had no taste but was great to rub into the back of my hand.  The chocolate on the other hand was nothing but yummy.  After all the tasting the only place left to visit was the shop!  Loved the prices in comparison to our usual supermarket so a shopping we did go.  Problem is, there is only so much chocolate one can buy at any one time.  Seems that didn’t apply to some of the folk in the shop as they had trolleys they filled and packed onto.  One lady told me she has 20 in the family so was shopping for Easter.  Bet her family is going to be sick of eggs by the time Easter is over!! 

After enjoying the delights of chocolate we had ourselves a picnic lunch further along the river towards Hobart and then took ourselves to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens and walked around this delightful area.  Again there were beautiful autumn colours and interesting trees and plants to wander through.  Unlike at Mt Field all these trees are named so it made the wander quite interesting.  We admired oak trees that have started changing and also a pine tree with a load of cones.  Throughout the gardens there were workmen setting up the lighting special effects that will be starring during the ‘10 days on the Island’ festival beginning this weekend.  Maybe we might be able to return to check out the display one evening. 

Tasman Bridge from Botanical Gardens

Oak tree at Botanical Gardens

Sunday 20th March 2011

Well we are now based for a week in New Norfolk just 25min NW of Hobart situated on the banks of the Derwent River.  The trees here are starting to turn and show their autumn colours.  There are many poplar trees throughout the town so there are many yellow shades now showing. 

We arrived here on Friday completing the drive from Queenstown in the one day.  The road out of Queenstown is quite steep and very twisty as it snakes it’s way up out of the valley.  Rather slow with a caravan behind but Bruiser did himself proud.  We did the drive to New Norfolk on petrol as there was no gas available in Queenstown and the next we found was here in New Norfolk. 

Salamanca markets in Hobart are held every Saturday and are written up in all the tourist information as a must do.  We took ourselves in and browsed around but actually markets are markets.  The main difference of course is the Tasmanian flavour with some of the produce and certainly the timber products made from Huon pine which is native to Tassie.  There was one lady with some articles made from handspun fibres but when chatting to her she advised that there was not anyone at the markets with fibres or spinning.  There was certainly a crowd of people and the novelty of pushing and tripping between folks soon dampens the enthusiasm to keep browsing.  In all those people however we still met up with a couple we had met at Queenstown caravan park.

After doing part of the markets we decided instead to walk up to the city and explore.  Morning tea and lunch were enjoyed sitting in cafes watching the passing parade of weekend shoppers.  Most of our time was spent admiring the old buildings and marvelling at the workmanship that was shown in their construction.   No labour saving devices back then just hard work and craftsmanship.

The day had finally turned out warm and sunny after a morning of greyness.  I had done some washing and had been wondering if it would ever dry with no sun however, the afternoon proved it could happen.  Returning to NN we found that it must be the destination for the cruiser folks of Hobart as there were 3 lovely boats moored at the jetty near the caravan park.  They spent the weekend here and left on Sunday afternoon to presumably return to their city life.  At least the weather was kind for all.  We had a rest day today and plan to start touring around tomorrow.

Thursday 17th March 2011

Day dawns overcast, rather cool with misty clouds but it is the day for our Wilderness Railway trip.  Seats are allocated for you and we were on the right hand side of the carriage.  The ‘tourist’ coaches are air conditioned…the glass is missing at the top of every window, and they are also heated……there are rugs in the racks if they are needed.  First class has all the glass in the window.

Our carriage was lined with Tasmanian Blackwood as were the slatted seat backs.  The seat was cushioned and surprisingly the seats were comfortable.  As we were rugged up in our 1R jumpers and coats we had no call for the heating elements of the carriage.  We had also packed a thermos and some nibbles so we enjoyed our cuppa as we chugged along.  The engine is oil fuelled so the traditional smell of the steam engine is missing along with the cinders.  In sections of the track the sides of the cuttings are so close that it is clear why we are constantly being reminded not to put our cameras or hands outside the windows. 

Our first stop is Lynchford where gold had been mined back in the late 1880’s.  Passengers could also try their luck with each offered a bag of soil and a pan.  One of the staff demonstrated how to ‘pan’ the soil and a couple of the passengers found their own speck.  One elderly ‘rogue’ decided to be smart and shouted Eureka and claimed to have found a one dollar coin in his pan.  Gave all around a bit of a chuckle. 

Here we could see the Queen River which is biologically dead from 75 years of mine tailings being allowed to run into the river.  This practice stopped 15 years ago and the water quality is slowly recovering.  I remember when we were here 18 years ago the water in this river which we saw in Queenstown was just like grey sludge, thick and gooey.  At least now it looks like water albeit coloured orange.  The banks of the river showed the effects of the pollution with the soil being a yellow orange colour such as we saw at our stop outside Roseberry.

After leaving Lynchford the train then started the climb to the summit Rinadeena which is a 1 in 16 climb.  Meaning that for every 16 metres forward, the train is actually climbing 1 metre.  The little engine puffed and puffed and steam was billowing out either side of the train.  Speed was about walking speed.  

Refilling water and the ratchet system rail

The decline down the other side is at a grade of 1 in 20 and again the ratchet was engaged.  At the next stop, Dubble Barril  we have our supplied picnic lunch consisting of a fresh salad roll, crackers and Tasmanian cheese, chocolate truffles and an apple.  All produce of course is Tasmanian.  Yummy.  This is where we also change trains.  The steam locomotive and carriages do a return trip to Queenstown with the passengers who travelled up from Strachan while our diesel engine with it’s carriages take us to Strahan.  The engines are changed over for the return trip by use of a turntable operated by the engine crew. 

This part of the trip follows the King River down to the mouth into Macquarie Harbour.  We are continually coming down in altitude and the many bridges and cuttings provide continual glimpses of the river through the vegetation.  We see vegetation successfully being re-established along the banks after them previously being destroyed by the mine tailings.  The Queen River runs into the King River and of course the mine tailings also transferred and the King River in this area has also been declared biologically dead.  The water does start to look more normal as you get closer to the mouth and at our last stop at Lower Landing looks much better.

Original bridge washed away by floods.

Our train journey ends in Strahan the picturesque village on the edge of Macquarie Harbour.  This area of water is 4 times the size of Sydney Harbour and has a narrow entrance called Hells Gates.  The weather from the Southern Ocean rolls in here and creates the cold wet weather that can be encountered throughout the year.  As we were informed on the train, the west coast of Tasmania receives over 3 metres of rain a year however this is spread over all 12 months not like the wet season in the mainland where it is spread over only approximately 5 months. 

Our return bus to Queenstown does not leave for just over an hour so we have time to wander and check out what might be available.  Of course all the usual tourist souveniers are available for all those taking the harbour cruises and sea plane flights that are on offer.   The village looks very similar to when we last visited and it is obvious that tourism continues to flourish and be the lifeblood of this location.

We meet up by chance with one of the couples we camped with the night before last so we all head for the fish café to escape the cold and sit for a chat and a snack until our bus arrives.  They are also heading down to New Norfolk in the next few days so there is every chance we will see them again there as we leave tomorrow and plan to stay for a week.

All in all a great day and we would recommend the trip on the Wilderness Railway to everyone.

14th - 16th March 2011

Monday we visited Sheffield the town of murals and they are not wrong with that claim.  There are many buildings that have their outside walls painted.  The murals depict the history of the area and cover from the early explorers through to honouring a doctor who served the area for many years.  One that took our interest was that of horsemen up in the mountains.  The story was that an electrical storm came up and a severe flash of lightening startled the men’s horses so much that one was thrown to the ground resulting in his back being broken and he died 6 weeks later.  One can only wonder at his suffering being up in the mountains with only his fellow horsemen for assistance.

 We drove up to Railton (the Topiary town) and drove around admiring the work that the locals have undertaken in forming these wonderful sculptures.  Finding a small park we stopped for our normal afternoon cuppa and when exploring the park, found it was actually the old railway station.  We glimpsed a van through the trees and wandered down for a look, and there were a couple of campers set up in the park which offered a free site.  How small the world is was demonstrated by the fact they came from Casino and know Lawrie’s cousins who live there.  Just shows you have to behave because you never know who is around.  Another motorhome drove in whilst we were chatting and they were from the Gold Coast so the 6 of us spent an enjoyable couple of hours sharing stories.  Not a lot of sight-seeing done but a very enjoyable time spent chatting to fellow travellers.  This of course is one of the delights of travelling this way.  What a shame we had to drive off back to our caravan instead of being able to join the evening session.

Tuesday we decided we would be leaving this delightful stop we have had at Carinya Farm in Roland.  Our hostess Christine is the daughter of our hostess Barbara in Bothwell.  Christine and her husband Gary have 2 holiday chalets on their property where guests can stay.  Their property was previously a dairy farm and the land is lush and green.  They have a billy goat called Bill (of course) and he enjoys being fed by the guests.  He came running when I walked towards his yard and rustled the plastic bag of bread slices.  This was a wonderful place to stay and we reluctantly headed off so as to continue our adventure.  We headed up towards the coast and travelled along the highway to Burnie where we were able to fill up with gas (light was blinking!) and have a cuppa overlooking the beach.  There were surfers in full length wet suits (the water must have been very cold) riding some very small waves.  We were rugged up as the wind was quite chilling and the clouds were not allowing any sunshine through so the thought of being in the water made me shiver.

Deciding to take the less twisting highway south we travelled out through Ridgley and saw timber plantations everywhere we looked.  There were areas that had been felled and others that were newly planted and others that looked ready for felling.  Not many cattle or sheep but trees everywhere.

We called into Waratah a small village now that had been the site of a huge tin mine in the late 1800’s through to the mid 1940’s.  The discovery at Mt Bischoff was considered the largest tin deposit in the world and led to the battery being built at Waratah where use was made of the plentiful water supply.  The average rainfall is over 100 inches so use was made of water wheels and turbines to power the battery.  It is believed it was one of the first uses in Australia of harnessing hydro power. 

Waratah Falls

  At the height of the mine operations there were nearly 3000 residents with a thriving shopping centre however by the mid 1950’s the population had dwindled to less than 100.   We headed out of Waratah and started looking for another camp spot for the night.  We came across Fossie River Rest Area and pulled in and spent the evening with another van and motorhome, both from Qld along with another motorhome from ACT.  There was a convoy of 4 motorhomes that also pulled in however there was not enough room so they drove on.  The clouds rolled in and the wind turned decidedly chilly so we all snuggled down in our ‘homes’ for the evening.  Morning brought misty rain and still a very cool temperature.  We rugged up and said hello to the neighbours and I had to explain why I only had thongs on when it was so cold.  We had bought me a new pair of leather boots in Sheffield and needless to say I had developed a blister on my left heel so at the moment I am not wearing any shoes, until it heals.  I explained that once my toes were numb they wouldn’t feel cold anymore!!  The day looked rather overcast and foreboding however we decided to continue on to Queenstown where we planned to stay for a few nights on power. 

Within about 15 km from our camp site we were in blue skies and sunshine so the cloud had cleared from our direction and was going to be more pleasant than expected after all.  Temperature range around 8 to 17 degrees.  Jeans and jackets the order of the day along with a beanie for Lawrie as heads get a little cool with not much hair to keep them warm!  Oh well what a good job he has his own spinner along, woollen beanie coming right up sir.

The drive to Queenstown was mainly through timber plantations again, and up and down a few mountains (well rather high hills at least).  Only problem is that these Tasmanians seem to like to drive on both sides of the double white lines as they come around corners so you have to really be on your guard.  Takes a little gloss off the fun of towing your van around.   We were quite impressed with Mt Murchison and took a photo with the cloud on top.  There was also a Lake Murchison which was quite large and the road crossed it twice. 

Mt Murchison

Just past Roseberry we came across the Stitt River rest area and stopped for a cuppa.   This area has been developed by the local Lions clubs and there are new tables and chairs and viewing platform that have been built for the convenience of travellers.  I couldn’t help but take photos of the glorious dahlias that were flowering in the park.  Their beauty made a distinct contrast to the mineral laden hillside where the light green coloured water flowed over very orange ground.  The Stitt River below, ran over rocks which created small rapid like waterfalls.  A very pleasant cuppa stop.

Queenstown hillsides are slowly becoming greener after being known for their ‘moonscape’ appearance.  We visited the railway station and checked out about the Wilderness Railway trips that run between Queenstown and Strahan daily.  The cost was $129 per person, (no concessions) but does include lunch and the return bus trip so we decided it would be well worth it.  We had been told of this train trip by others and all encouraged us to take the trip so tomorrow we are booked to go.  We checked out the heritage display at the railway station and marvelled over the photos of construction during the late 1800’s where there were only picks and shovels to build the railway line through the mountains and approximately 40 bridges.  The original line took 2 ½ years to complete and the restoration took 3 years.  The original line built by the Mt Lyall Mining Co had been in use till 1963 and it was in the late 1990’s that the decision was made to resurrect the line and bring back the small steam engines that use to ply this route previously.   We were at the station when the train arrived and damn but my camera was in the car…….oh well there is hopefully a chance tomorrow.  We were able to watch the engine uncouple and go to the turntable to be pushed around 180 degrees by the driver and assistant so that it could re-connect to the end of the 3 carriages for the return trip.  We are certainly looking forward to our day out.

Sunday 13th March 2011

 Having now settled in Roland just south west of Sheffield (just below Devonport) we headed out for a visit to Cradle Mountain National Park.  This area (161,000 hectares) is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area.  We drove along twisting roads that went both up and down on our way there.  Some corners were just 15 kmh so quite sharp.  Too many times oncoming drivers are hugging the centre line or even over it so extreme caution is needed.  The scenery however is awesome, tall forests, rugged bush, green hillsides, this drive had it all.  We had purchased a Parks Pass whilst on the ferry and this allows us to visit all the National Parks in Tasmania without further cost.  There is an entry fee into each of their main parks so it was cost effective to pre-purchase.  

We visited the Interpretive centre and browsed the interesting displays they have on show.  There was a photographic exhibition also on display and some of the captured views were magnificent, especially those taken when snow was on the mountain.  Outside you take a short stroll through rainforest to the Pencil Pine Falls before returning along the circuit walk to the centre.  It is wheelchair friendly with a boardwalk so all can enjoy this delightful area.  The lichen growing on the trees through the rainforest just made my fingers itch to collect for dyeing however being a national park!!!!! I did resist.

We caught the shuttle bus out to Dove Lake from the visitors centre.  There is a restriction on the number of vehicles allowed into this area so there are free shuttle buses running every 15mins or so to keep the vehicles out.  There have sure been a lot of changes in the 18 years since we last visited this area.   All to ensure this area is protected for all our future generations to enjoy just as we do.

We walked to Glacier Rock on the shore of Dove Lake and climbed to enjoy the view.  Being the midst of a long weekend here in Tassie there were plenty of visitors around to share the walks and view with.  There are quite a few walks that can be done in the area ranging from 30 min to 5 days.  Cradle Mountain is the other end of the Overland Track that connects to Lake St Clair where we visited last Monday on our bus tour with Judy.  We were not quite ready for anything too strenuous so just enjoyed the view, fresh air and pleasant sunshine.

The photos show the magic of the area and needless to say we took many. 

We finally said goodbye to Cradle Mtn and headed out to make our way back up the western side of the chain of lakes including Lake Barrington where there is an Olympic standard rowing course.  We found a lookout at Wilmott that looked down the valley across the lake to Mt Roland. 

The surrounding countryside was lush green and the cattle would have no trouble fattening up.  We visited Devil’s Gate Dam on our way home and had a cuppa there beside the lake.  This is another of the many Hydro dams built around Tasmania.