Thargomindah – Eulo – Cunnamulla

Of course there was an interesting ‘river’ walk we took over two mornings.  Not planning on being out in the hotter part of the day we did our exploring before 11.30am.

The Bulloo river is a ‘contained’ river and would only run after heavy rains in the northern catchment.  Our walk took us beside various waterholes that at other times would be the river but are now stagnant.  There was a weir built west of the town and the road bridge is on the eastern end of town.  Near the bridge is the stony crossing built in the 1880’s and used by the Cobb and Co coaches as they travelled this outback area.  Thargomindah was a coach stop along the track and both coaches and horses were kept there.

how would you like to travel the outback this way?

 

During our stay here we met up with the caretaker Jack, 86yr old and has lived and worked all his life in the area on various properties as a drover etc.  What a pleasure and honour to sit down with Jack for a cuppa each morning.  He would relate various stories of his life in this trying land and we could only wonder at the resilience of this small statured man who has lived through tough and trying times.

Leaving Thargo finally we continued our eastern bound journey to Eulo another small dot on the map.  There are a couple of shops, hotel with camping park attached, police station and a leatherwork/patchwork shop to wander in.

sign just outside Eulo....we walked but didn't find anything

The Eulo Queen Hotel was a place for a cool drink and a chat to the resident barman.  On the walls is the story of the Eulo Queen.  Her name was Isobel ?? and it is believed she was sent out from England as she was illigitement and an embarrassment to someone.  Soon after arriving in Australia she married a well to do gentleman and he purchased a hotel in Eulo which serviced the nearby opal mines.  The town ended up with 3 hotels and he owned the lot along with several other commercial buildings.  One night a rowdy young stockman was in the hotel and Isobel asked him to leave.  He asked ‘who do you think you are’ and she evidently replied ‘the Queen of Eulo’ and that was how the name came about and has stuck ever since.  Husband number 1 died after amassing his ‘portfolio’ and Isobel was left a wealthy woman.  She continued to live in town and she married again within 2 years.  Husband number 2 and she evidently ‘clashed’ quite a bit and once he was arrested for assaulting her.  He was fined 15 pounds and Isobel paid his fine so that he could return to her.  He also passed away and within another 2 years she was married to a young Tasmanian miner.  This marriage was also quite tempestuous and they soon separated and were never reconciled.  Isobel still running the hotel traded with the opal miners and it was said that she had quite a collection of opal from her ‘dealings’.   Unfortunately she fell ill and was finally admitted to the asylum in Toowoomba where she died a pauper and is buried in an unmarked grave in Toowoomba.  The remaining hotel in Eulo however still proudly bears her name and is well worth a visit to learn the story. 

We camped that night out beside the Paroo river along with a handful of other vanners. 

railway station at Cunnamulla

one of only 3 'covered' platforms in Qld

 

Railway Station building

It was now only 67km to Cunnamulla so a leisurely drive for the next morning.  Lots of emus still and many with their families.  Seems dad was trying to teach them how to cross the road and what a lovely sight, 9 chicks with an adult just strolling across the highway.

Cunnamulla is a ‘stock up the pantry’ stop for us and wow how do the locals stand paying those prices for groceries we think nothing about getting.  I couldn’t help but notice the small variety when it comes to fruit and veg and with tomatoes over $11 per kg I am sure there are not many salads served up.

Cunnamulla Fella erected to honour those who worked this land

Beautiful flowers, including roses, were planted along the main streets and in bloom the town looked ‘pretty’.  If only I could capture the perfume as well as the colour of the various blooms. 

Cedar tree in flower, perfume was divine

 

how many of these on the tree above??

 

We leave here tomorrow after two nights and make our way further east to Bollon before turning southwards to head to Lightening Ridge (and more opals!!)  What beautiful stones they are, the colours are amazing.  So different to the opals from Coober Pedy in Sth Aust that we have seen previously.  Oh well how big is that bank balance??

weir at Cunnamulla on the Warrego River