Walgett – Brewarrina – Bourke – Cobar – Wilcannia – Broken Hill

Free camped at Brewarrina beside the Barwon River.  The journey to here had us seeing lots of emus beside the road.  The gentleman at the garage told me that the total population here would be about 500 and most employment would be with the Shire Council and that there was not much work on stations around this area.

sunrise through my front window

 

Bourke was a fuel stop.... however….. the only gas outlet only operated Monday to Friday so petrol it had to be as today was only Saturday.  We had spent some time here back in 2010 and did not feel the need to stay again so planned to travel on instead.  Another free camp 100km north of Cobar was found and we were relaxing by mid-afternoon.   Today it had been wild goats everywhere along the road and hardly any emus.  They must know not to cross paths!!

bush camping

 

Into Cobar next morning and fuelled with gas and food we headed west towards Wilcannia.  We decided to stop again about 50km east of there so that our trip into Broken Hill was only around 250km the next day. 

monument to miners at Cobar

150 men lost their lives below ground here between 1870 and 2000

 

There were quite a few campsites along the highway and where we stopped we had another couple of campers pull in along with a couple of trucks.  Fortunately with the room available we were able to be away from the noise from the refrigerated trucks and we enjoyed the visitors we had (birds and goats).

wild goats visiting the campsite

game enough to come right inside the van

 

sunset through the trees

 

 

Our last day of travel towards Broken Hill had us again adjusting our time as they operate on South Australia time.  This also took us into the fruit fly exclusion zone so signs along the highway advise of forbidden foods.   It seems an honesty system as there was no actual ‘checkpoint’, just a bin provided for you to place fruit etc into.

the road to Broken Hill

 

Lightning Ridge

they can all read in Lightning Ridge!!

some of the flowering bouganvilleas

 boys and their toys ....... or is it first there we need a vehicle

 and then we need a house....this one constructed in 1916

Sandstone carvings in the Chamber of the Black Hand
sandstone is the level above the opal
over 100 carvings have been done by the owner in this mine, now a preserved site and no longer worked as a mine

 The Last Supper

 Gabriel

 sign on the 'red' door self drive route

the Astronomers Monument, a hand built structure using tins as the formwork for the cement.

We have enjoyed a great time here at 'The Ridge' and leave tomorrow for Brewarrina and Bourke.

Dirrabandi to Lightning Ridge

We were now back onto the Castlereagh Hway and next stop Hebel on the NSW/Qld border.  That was our cuppa stop for the morning and found an interesting ‘welcome’ sign.  We chatted to a couple of locals beside the waterhole where we had stopped and picked up some tips on where to go at ‘The Ridge’.

Qld welcome sign

Plenty of vegetation along the way, nothing like Coober Pedy which is quite desolate in comparison.  The surrounding countryside is quite flat with not much evidence of hills of any significance.

welcome sign for Lightning Ridge

Lightning Ridge produces nearly all of the world’s supply of black opal which is the most rare and valuable of opals and is Australia’s official national gemstone.  Mining commenced here in the late 1800’s with miners digging square shafts using just a pick and shovel.  They climbed down just using only their back and legs to brace them.  Now shafts are usually 25m underground and the miners use steel ladders to work their claim along with jackhammers or machines with names like ‘digger’,’ bogger’ and ‘blower’.  Each claim is 50m by 50m and only two claims can be held by the same person at any one time.  As you drive around you see where old ‘cement mixers’ (agitators) live after their time with ‘Readymix’.  They are used to tumble and wash the dirt brought to the surface before the ‘tailings’ are inspected for hint or trace of opal colour.

open cut mine at Lunatic's Hill (now preserved)

It was thought that anyone who dug up here must have been a lunatic as they had to dig so much further to reach the opal that was mined down on the 'flat'.

Taking a walk to the shops after setting up we were surprised at the number of businesses there were here.  We had not expected so many.  Of course there are plenty of opal shops and a couple of art galleries.  These are going to be fun to visit.  Guess we thought it would be like Coober Pedy but very different.  The colours of the flowering bougainvillea are so intense, this is evidently a climate that suits them.

There are 4 self-drive tours here.  The red, blue, yellow and green ‘car door’ tours.  Each one starts from a point in town and you simply follow the coloured coded car doors that act as signposts.  Easily seen and rather unique.

church and house built from 'what was available'

roof is held down with rocks and walls are packed stone

 

Bollen - DIrranbandi

The 102km to Dirranbandi that we knew included some dirt road was not as bad as we had expected.   There was only about a third of the road still dirt and that was in 3 sections.   There had only been one section of ‘rocky’ gravel, the rest was mainly sandy corrugations and it was the cattle grids that sometimes became the worst ‘bumps’.  We took it steady, stopped for a cuppa of course and took just under 3 hours to travel to our next stop. 

part of the 'dirt' road

About 20km out of Dirranbandi we came across a mob of mustered cattle being ‘sorted’ in some yards.  It seemed they were being readied for transport.  The stockmen were up on the sides of the pens amid the dust from the milling cattle.  Unfortunately the road just there was fairly narrow and there wasn’t anywhere we could have parked safely to watch them continue their interesting work.

We set up our camp beside the Balonne Minor river which had plenty of water and also plenty of carp.  The man however has sworn off fishing so we’ll see what happens to the remaining bait in the freezer.  We spent the night by ourselves but were within sight of the lights of Dirranbandi so next morning it was only a short drive to check out the ‘town’.  Probably about 50 houses, couple of shops, service station and that was about it that we could see.

someone at Cunnamulla had a sense of being 'unique' in signage

Still at Bollon

Well the last week and a half have been so pleasant sitting here beside the creek, listening to the various birds, kingfishers, cranes, happy families (apostle birds), willy wagtails, parrots to name just a few.  There is even a pair of brolgas living at the waterhole behind us.  We can hear there loud calls during the day and have seen them around the waterhole.
Have to announce that there have been no fish caught!!! however the float and sinker did get caught on a tree branch earlier in the week and only today did they get removed (make that recovered).  I believe the comment on returning from the uneventful (and unsuccessful) fishing foray was 'this fishing is for mugs'!!
I on the other hand have read book after book after book.  The weather has been quite warm and during the day there is not a lot of desire to take out the knittng, spinning or tatting however picking up a book is a lot less stressful.  Hopefully there will be another book exchange at the caravan park when we reach Lightning Ridge on Monday.
We have learnt to appreciate the ABC radio out here, it is the only station that is reasonably clear, and have to accept that there will be no viewing of Bathurst tomorrow despite it being the 50th anniversary.
Good news was that our fellow camper did not break anything, just disloated his shoulder.  The folk camped beside him were both ambulance officers so he had 'first aid' immediately and was all settled when the ambulance finally arrived from St George.  His vehicle was manual so when he left a couple of days later he was having fun trying to change gears.  Guess the missus didn't drive.  Bit of a lesson there I guess.
We will be heading out of here tomorrow (Sunday) and driving down to Dirranbandi, about 102km away so not a long trip.  Just as well as the weather will probably continue a little warm so short drives are the order of the day.

Bollon

Arriving here we found the campsite beside the Wallum Creek.  What a lovely litlle village and the amenities provided for travellers are terrific.  Well done to the townsfolk and shire council.  Lovely shaded area beside the creek, plenty of room, drinkable water at a couple of taps, dump point for the 'necessaries', toilets and showers for those without that convenience built in.  What more could travellers want.
There is a hotel, post office, bush nurse, cafe cum general store, produce store selling fresh vegies (cheap) and a garage for petrol or diesel.  Probably about 20 homes in town, wide streets and soooooo quiet.
We have settled ourselves here beside the creek and have decided to stay till the end of the Qld school hols so that will give us about a week and a half here in this relaxing spot.
Weather so far has been great with a dusty wind on Friday afternoon followed by showers on Sat morning but since then beautiful clear skies with a cool breeze blowing.  Full moon at night has meant that it almost looks like daylight outside with our shadows standing out clearly.  Just magic.
Needless to say we are enjoying ourselves immensely.
Did some washing yesterday and also completed spinning and plying two skeins of wool.  They are also washed out now and put away in the 'finished' box.  Still plenty to go however.  Also made a braided bracelet out of embroidery cotton for something different over the weekend.
One of the campers here (there are over a dozen each day) has a satellite dish and a group of folk joined him yesterday for the NRL grand final.  We have heard this morning that during the night he fell over and broke his collarbone and is now in hospital in St George.  Hope to see him and his wife back here soon.  Not going to be much fun for him for a few weeks I should guess.
Lswrie had a try at fishing in the creek.  Lots of carp there, they swim near the top looking at you.  We have been told that you can catch them on corn niblets so maybe he might give it a go for something to do during our stay.  Needless to say I have lots of crafty things that I can pull out to amuse myself.

Thargomindah – Eulo – Cunnamulla

Of course there was an interesting ‘river’ walk we took over two mornings.  Not planning on being out in the hotter part of the day we did our exploring before 11.30am.

The Bulloo river is a ‘contained’ river and would only run after heavy rains in the northern catchment.  Our walk took us beside various waterholes that at other times would be the river but are now stagnant.  There was a weir built west of the town and the road bridge is on the eastern end of town.  Near the bridge is the stony crossing built in the 1880’s and used by the Cobb and Co coaches as they travelled this outback area.  Thargomindah was a coach stop along the track and both coaches and horses were kept there.

how would you like to travel the outback this way?

 

During our stay here we met up with the caretaker Jack, 86yr old and has lived and worked all his life in the area on various properties as a drover etc.  What a pleasure and honour to sit down with Jack for a cuppa each morning.  He would relate various stories of his life in this trying land and we could only wonder at the resilience of this small statured man who has lived through tough and trying times.

Leaving Thargo finally we continued our eastern bound journey to Eulo another small dot on the map.  There are a couple of shops, hotel with camping park attached, police station and a leatherwork/patchwork shop to wander in.

sign just outside Eulo....we walked but didn't find anything

The Eulo Queen Hotel was a place for a cool drink and a chat to the resident barman.  On the walls is the story of the Eulo Queen.  Her name was Isobel ?? and it is believed she was sent out from England as she was illigitement and an embarrassment to someone.  Soon after arriving in Australia she married a well to do gentleman and he purchased a hotel in Eulo which serviced the nearby opal mines.  The town ended up with 3 hotels and he owned the lot along with several other commercial buildings.  One night a rowdy young stockman was in the hotel and Isobel asked him to leave.  He asked ‘who do you think you are’ and she evidently replied ‘the Queen of Eulo’ and that was how the name came about and has stuck ever since.  Husband number 1 died after amassing his ‘portfolio’ and Isobel was left a wealthy woman.  She continued to live in town and she married again within 2 years.  Husband number 2 and she evidently ‘clashed’ quite a bit and once he was arrested for assaulting her.  He was fined 15 pounds and Isobel paid his fine so that he could return to her.  He also passed away and within another 2 years she was married to a young Tasmanian miner.  This marriage was also quite tempestuous and they soon separated and were never reconciled.  Isobel still running the hotel traded with the opal miners and it was said that she had quite a collection of opal from her ‘dealings’.   Unfortunately she fell ill and was finally admitted to the asylum in Toowoomba where she died a pauper and is buried in an unmarked grave in Toowoomba.  The remaining hotel in Eulo however still proudly bears her name and is well worth a visit to learn the story. 

We camped that night out beside the Paroo river along with a handful of other vanners. 

railway station at Cunnamulla

one of only 3 'covered' platforms in Qld

 

Railway Station building

It was now only 67km to Cunnamulla so a leisurely drive for the next morning.  Lots of emus still and many with their families.  Seems dad was trying to teach them how to cross the road and what a lovely sight, 9 chicks with an adult just strolling across the highway.

Cunnamulla is a ‘stock up the pantry’ stop for us and wow how do the locals stand paying those prices for groceries we think nothing about getting.  I couldn’t help but notice the small variety when it comes to fruit and veg and with tomatoes over $11 per kg I am sure there are not many salads served up.

Cunnamulla Fella erected to honour those who worked this land

Beautiful flowers, including roses, were planted along the main streets and in bloom the town looked ‘pretty’.  If only I could capture the perfume as well as the colour of the various blooms. 

Cedar tree in flower, perfume was divine

 

how many of these on the tree above??

 

We leave here tomorrow after two nights and make our way further east to Bollon before turning southwards to head to Lightening Ridge (and more opals!!)  What beautiful stones they are, the colours are amazing.  So different to the opals from Coober Pedy in Sth Aust that we have seen previously.  Oh well how big is that bank balance??

weir at Cunnamulla on the Warrego River